who here has been surfing this week?

So I got out of jury duty early, and was ready to head down to the beach when the wife asked if I could help her mom put together one of those newfangled electric fireplaces for her. Did I forget to tell you that all my in-laws relocated from over the mountain to just down the street? Lovely.

So I spent like 3 hours working on that Chinese ball of feces, grumbling all the while that I was missing perfect surf.

After finishing, rushed down to the beach to find excellent shoulder to head peelers groomed by strong offshores...And nobody out.

Me and my best bud caught it alone for about an hour before 2 other locals paddled out, trading waves for another hour. A very good surfing day.

Super long period groundswell starts filling in this afternoon...should get interesting

 

You sound like a cool dude - you should visit more often

 

Had the day off today (thanks DT) but of course it's dead flat.

 

5'7 x 21 3/4" x 2 1/2" Its my winter mini simmons. Few inches longer for extra float

 

Finally got wet after several weeks outta the water. Heavy work load with critical deadlines and other responsibilities kept me out, but finally things lined up Saturday and was able to squeeze in an hour+ sesh. Air temps in low 40's (water mid 40's bon voyage grey suite buoys), and I was nice in toasty in the new 5/4 I scored on clearance earlier in the fall (thx for the tip scobes). Got some nice waves (although any decent bumps are good waves when you've been in the surfing sahara), rights and lefts, w/ soft take offs into zippy inside sections. Got a little more crunch as the water drew out. Fairly clean as the wind was near dead. Quick snap below I took from the weeds before getting in .. no time for cinematical artistry when you haven't been wet in a while and needed to make haste to score. Good to be re-immersed in salt water.

Be well swellers!

 

I've been buried with work, no surf since mid-October! These posts help out a lot (also the fuckton of $$$ I'll make) so thanks all! Especially the ones with pics. I'll have more time in about 3 weeks.. how awesome is that 1st wave after a long drought of surf? Too great to describe?

 

...... only if you make it! Hope you get some soon. Hell i hope i get some soon. One more month and i get a new stock of sick days to use for those mid week days!

 

surf way better after a drought, just a lot hungrier/committed

 

Last good session was a month ago... got wet and slammed around for a few last week at dusk... I’m SOOOOOO gonna enjoy Rincon.

 

Have you ever surfed over reef?

Remember to fall flat...

Dont be kicking around when you’re getting worked over shallow reef...cut yo foot!

Bring sunscreen.

Watch sunset while drinking cerveza post session.

 

And pay attention to where the locals get in and out.

 

+1

 

thx dude. I work 3 days per week (if that) from June thru Sept. then I work like an animal and travel a lot for business in 4Q, then work normal hours Jan thru May.

 

Never surfed over reef, just sandy bottom and some cobblestone bottom, so great points - gonna have to memorize them cause I’ll phuck it up.

Sunscreen and rash guard are mandatory for my white azz.

The locals thing actually was a plan of mine because I don’t want to be surfing the wrong spots or trying to get in or out in bad places... +2

And Brother, the sunsets and cervezas are mandatory - I’m so wound up and grouchy I think that will be as big as the surfing itself for me.

One side note is I’m trying to decide what break to surf first - it will be an afternoon sesh and obviously depends on what’s working, but if I find a nice spot with No reef that will still work for me, I’m gonna take it. I’d much rather start off on a good note that get wrecked and ruin the whole trip.

And the board is $150 each way... ouch.

I asked my pilot buddy if gratuitous sexual favors for the check in girls would work and he suggested chocolate instead.
Phucker

And I know Barry’s gonna want to jam me lol and that’s ok, but I’m also alittle bummed I’m not going with some friends.
Would have been more fun and less stress.
PeeWees big adventure!!! Hahaha

 

If 1st sesh is in the afternoon you may end up at Domes or Maria’s (both reef) due to wind direction, not a guarantee but I found Sandy Beach was good early morning and then would get blown out in the afternoon, not always but generally speaking. The reefs at those spots are pretty forgiving and not to worry about. There are some rocks to look out for when getting in and out. Just watch where people go, it’s not that big a deal. Wait for water to get deep and then jump in and paddle off once in the right spot and in the water a little bit.

 

Hahahah sounds like a recipe for some busted balls and broken fins! Yeeeeewwwwww

 

Urchins are public enemy number one. Step on one and you can ruin your whole trip. As DP noted, watch where you go in and out.

 

Had a dream I fell on a bunch last night... that and getting bumped by jaws hahahahahaha
Will do on the urchins though. I’m a dummy but I listen

 

Unless you're paddling out to some spitting slab, don't worry about the reef. Don't change your surfing style out of concern for what's below, for you will surely hit bottom that way. But do be mindful of urchins when having to plant your feet.

Honestly, I've gotten hurt the same (if not more) by hitting a sand bottom as much as a rock bottom. The game changer being barnacles and other meat grinding accoutrements.