who here has been surfing this week?

I’m confused. Is the sticky the whalecum?

 

Super fun this morning.......but very cold. Its winter now folks.

 

Been winter around these parts for a dam month...
Miserable. Water got down to 44 in early/mid novemeber at times and has stayed mid 40’s since.
Wind chills in the teens and twenties since then too at times. Usually when there was some kind of swell lol. Like my night in a towel Hahahaha
It’s like January/February already.

 

Had Marias (Rincon PR) this past weekend which I usually avoid when im on the island. Super fun - locals were saying it was as good as it gets. Head+ peelers on Saturday. It was magical and the crowd was not bad either

 

I got some fun chest - head high waves this morning on my 6'4" Flashback Fish. NE Swell, light NW wind, mostly clean with a slight bump when a breeze would kick up. Lots of lefts with a few rights. One wave in particular stayed open for a while a let me cruise up and down the face and play with my balls. It was chilly with air 49-50 degrees, so I wore my 3/2 for the first time this season. Great way to kick off my day!

 

It's been firing here last couple days, yesterday's bounce swell was clean and chest to head high, then a longer period groundswell filled in on the incoming tide, was well OH and the hard offshores made it real bouncy. Lots of guys were making big drops and getting stuffed at the bottom up in Jupiter and Juno, so I went down to Singer Island and found a few clean OH peaks before it got out of control there too.

Today the wind was not as favorable, so I went to a nook and got it waist to chest and clean. It was gnarly elsewhere, well OH sets tattered by straight east winds. I was wrestling with my ego, which wanted to go out in bigger peaks, and my commonsense, which wanted to avoid getting worked. Glad reason won out, I had a blast on the fun little waves, still got wet, enjoyed the vibe and the sun and the sea.

I have a feeling this winter is going to be epic here in the dirty souff. Life is goode.

 

Longest streak I haven’t surfed in months... Counting 10 days right now and it’s killing me. The lack of time to surf in the evening just plain sucks. Missed out on the last few days of fun waves. This weekend looks wonky. Might have to drive far south to get anything remotely clean. Pissed.

 

I don't wanna say the trip to California was a bust, but the surfing was really not much to talk about, due to time constraints. It was a business trip, after all. Surfed for a couple hours at The Wedge one day, late afternoon, into the evening, due to that being the only time I had. Then in Seal Beach the next night. Once again, well after sunset. The surf was fine, nice waist to chest high, but in the end, I needed a bit more time. I usually go on this business trip in March and have more daylight to burn.

Was gonna surf today back home, but it was flat ASF. Not worth putting on a suite and getting in for a couple long boartable waves every 10 minutes haha. Hoping for at least one good surfing day around Christmas. If not, then I've only got 5 weeks left until I take a trip to a not yet booked or determined location, most likely Rincon.

 

I feel you man. I think I surfed a day a couple weeks ago at home in Monmouth County, not including my recent California business trip, where I clocked a few hours and mostly not even at daylight.

I've been working a lot, but I always check on my days off and I'm getting the feeling it's been a mediocre to poor Fall in Jersey, but maybe I'm just not off on the days it's been good.

 

The dredging has hurt too, its been surprisingly very good on the bigger swells, but the days its smaller (which is more typical) most of Ocean County is not rideable.

 

This morning wasn't nearly as good as yesterday. Swell still hanging around the chest high range but it's bumpy, disorganized peaks, and lots of white water. I got a few decent rides on the Flashback Fish but nothing too special. It was warmer out, which was nice, but I'll take better waves if it's colder any day.

 

I'm out of commission for the next two weeks. More melanoma taken off my shoulder yesterday. No surfing, swimming, or heavy lifting for two weeks. After my short surfing hiatus for hunting season, it feels like months. Getting the itch bad. No, not the itch you get from not wearing a condom with a Vietnamese Mama-san you perverted fockers, I'm talking the surfing itch.

 

Very sorry to hear that. How did you know you had melanoma, aside from seeing a doctor? Anything painful or really weird looking?

 

Funny you bring up the big M... my wife is convinced I have it on back and shoulders but I’m avoiding going to docs until after PR lol
Screw it - what’s a little more tropical sun gonna do if it’s there?

 

Not Chavez but I have had two myself taken off about a month apart. First one I simply noticed a small black spot on my shoulder. My regular doc took it off and it came back phucking melanoma. But caught early. He sent me to a dermatologist and then they took about a dime size flat mole off my back. Same thing. All this 5 years ago. I don’t want to highjack this awesome thread, I just say that to say if you have weird chit on you, just go get it looked at.

 

Wow....so you have that in your long list of experiences??

 

You are avoiding going to doc when your wife advises you to go??
Don't. Go. Reasons:
1) Your wife may be wrong, and you will alleviate your AND HER concerns.
2) Your wife may be right and you will be glad to remove them; you will heal before PR (which ain't that great anyways)
3) Your wife will be happy you listened to her no matter what the outcome.
4) You need not be a "macho I am tough guy" with us. We already know you are a wimp and a moron. Why else would you have joined us??

 

Yeah, Barry's right for once. Go get it checked out, don't be a moron

 

Keep it up. I will send locusts and plague to your residence.