Condolences big-time Bass. Pics are sick Yank, you should frame the first 2. Got me thinking about how long it's been since I did a CR trip. TOO long.
Got some chest hi plus yesterday in warbly conditions in a crowded nook, sheltered from the building gnar. Checked all the usual spots , no one out, or only a couple guys here and there getting closed out on. My neck is getting too sore to take a beating for short drop and stops, so I went for the easy paddle out, sit in the crowd, and get a few random peaks. Took the 6'6" egg out for ease of wave catching. The first couple were OK, then I ate it three waves in a row!!! which rarely happens. It was due to me getting up too slow, and the board being too fat in shore dump. I have not been this frustrated in a while, but decided to stay out and get some waves. Which finally did happen. the last one was good, a few turns, a cutback, and a zippy finish to the beach. It felt good to redeem myself, my goal was to loosen up for today, which I passed up on, not enough lulls yet, and well OH sets closing out way way outside.. Tomorrow should still be sizeable and clean and have some old man lulls in case I fall and can't get up. But the session got me thinking, along with the Shaping threadde, it's time for a new step up - maybe a 6'9" x 21" x 2.75" round tail. More volume than my current step up - an old yellow 6'6" Orion swallow tail which is 20.25" x 2.65" and is now getting a bit squirrely under my feet on steep drops. The swallow tail has too much lift for me at this stage - I just want to bury a rail at the bottom and make the first section, then I can still get all jiggy. Any helpful suggestions?
I have a 6'4'' that I love and was my quiver killer for awhile, but recently I have been using my 6'8'' more. Same shape, but with winter here more rubber and bigger swells, the bigger board has made a difference. That little added stability and paddle power has helped for sure with out compromising performance.
Warm water?! You def from the east coast Sh it’s freezing out heyA! Anybody surf Scarface beach Miami) yesterday? Looked epic as can be! Saw one clip on Shea lopez’s IG
If you’re interested, I’m moving some borts and one of them is my 6’9” Rawson. Used it twice and then got the Roberts. PM me if you wanna talk. Just popped into my head after reading your post
Went Saturday afternoon in the thigh high but pretty glassy and sunny day... caught some fun little rippers on big red and just recharged on stoke - MUCH needed. Now I just need a decent swell and some decent rides and I’ll be back
It was a few foot OH and stiff offshores so there were big barrels today in the dirty souff. This morning was low tide, and bombing way way way way outside. Guys were getting clobbered at the bottom of the drops, so I went to work and waited till after lunch and the incoming tide. The wind swung a bit more out of the SW, holding the lefts wide open. Glad I didn't go out yesterday, my way younger (41) buddy got his shoulder dislocated inside a barrel he didn't make it out of, and he surfs Peru and PR on the regs. Did some yoga instead, to get loose for today. It still looked quite gnarly at the Juno Pier, and Singer Island was a giant ball of bait fish, so I found a spot up in Jupiter that looked more forgiving and peaky, about shoulder to head high. Surfing is as much about confidence as it is about ability, timing, equipment, and conditions. Mine was a bit shaken after last session, so I chose a spot that looked easy on the takeoffs. The last wave I got was a beauty, a smooth hollow shoulder high peak, held wide open by the wind. I had to paddle almost due south to angle in properly, and I paddled hard to get down into the face. Made a real nice smooth drawn out backside bottom turn on my 6'6" NA Pete Dooley round nose round tail. It is FAST and fat. Got a couple off the lips and the face got steeper and bigger, about head high. Did a quick cut back to get back into the pocket, then got a nice off the lip backside and the wind blew me almost out the back, but the board has a round nose so I scooched up front and did a re- entry back into the wave, and got maybe three or four more real nice backside turns, and made it all the way to the sand, and said to myself....time to go back to work...with my swag back. All it takes is one good wave well ridden. Life is goode.
Who cares?? Now, we DO CARE about bikinis...please send pictures of "California girls"...never mind surf stuff.