who here has been surfing this week?

...... hopping up & down on the saddle does it every time; my wife rode English for years, what a ride .............

 

Chest high east lines, winds went offshore mid afternoon. Got fun but i'm really getting tired of the cloudy surfs with 40 degree water. From around 3 p.m. Delmarva

 

Caught it really fun today shoulder to head range and steady offshores. Water dropped down to 45, which is about as cold as it gets here.

You'd never know it from the crowds. Kooks were out in full force with plenty of shenanigans like bailing in the peak on top of guys sitting inside. I'd have sworn it was a summer weekend.

But we've got a groundswell and favorable winds through Tuesday. Snagged some good ones today, and the crowd starts thinning after lunchtime Sunday.

I'll get mine.

 

I ain't surfed in about 5 weeks, since I left Oahu after a week vacation there in late January, which was pretty damn fun. Between work and flat days when I'm off. I'm hoping to go out today, but I'm not sure. Forecast looks good, but I've had this nasty cough for over 2 weeks now. I feel fine, otherwise, but I'm not sure I wanna get in the 38 degree water like this.

I'm already itching for another trip in the next couple months.

 

Pretty much as soon as I got the camera out yesterday the light went to poo and a cold mist started falling.

 

At least the air has been warm! We got so hot last session, we were steaming when changing!

 

Got decent late afternoon yesterday, but seemed a bit disorganized. Maybe it was the east swell direction... maybe the wind never really fully cleaned it up... maybe it was me. Size was good, though... some overhead peaks and solid head high sets. Lotta lefts.

This morning was a lot smaller... and a bit wonky with the tide and side-offshore wind direction.

Next...

 

Today's session was awesome and im so stoked on it. I checked it yesterday morning, looked good but winds were really heavy. Getting into them would of been a son of a beached whale. Decided to wait till afternoon when winds died down but other things came up and i couldn't make it. Point being i was really banking on today being fun. Forecast ws only calling thigh high but i knew it was off. Don't know what it is exactly but i get these feelings when i just know the forecast is off and I'm usually right.

Pulled up today and it was looking waist high on sets, super clean with light offshores, weird warble to it, but fun looking. Grabbed the 5'8 thruster and got on it. It was bigger than it looked. Consistent waist to belly high with chest high sets. Only me and one other dude out for the first hour. Waves were super rippable but i was not ripping by any means. Our sandbars last year were creating lots of rights, a rare thing here. I got to the point where i only would go on rights. As a result my backhand has felt clumsy. Trying to smooth it out in a 5/4 doesn't help. However, i did get some fun ones and got some nice top turns in here and there.

As the tide dropped the warble went away. And man. Barrel fest. No big draining barrels. But these really fun small easy playful barrels that offered up a fantastic view and were very makeable. Iv said it before, my barrel riding is lacking. Doesn't barrel much. Well our whole setup feels so foreign now with the recent dredge. Very NJ like where it'll barrel on most tides and sizes. Whole second half of the session was only backhand barrels. I got into this flow like state where things were just clicking. Lip was soft so if you got clamped you could easily bust through it and continue on. Around here, iv never had a session that i would call a barrel fest until today. By the end of the session i felt like my barrel riding definitely came up a notch. Starting to figure this new setup out. Which is great because iv felt pretty out of place ever since the dredge.

I had a blast and I'm pumped.

 

Mid Atlantic was fun earlier today. Water is still shrivel your balls cold but nice, small little swell

 

Met up with nJSurfer30 today at Nanny, and as usual, the forecast is ALMOST there but.... it’s just a rule: the next day after a storm, it’s usually really big and messy until you get outside. Wherever that is haha. Well, it was BIG and wonky and short closeouts mixed in with big long makeable rights and steep fast lefts and an outside that kept changing where it was so if you were asleep you got caught by the occasional overhead closeout that suddenly popped up 30 yds behind you.
After a legit 25 minute WWEstyle paddle out, we got outside and it was glassy and rolly and cool to watch them build and break from behind and after timing a few that looked ready to close out but then rolled underneath us, he caught a really nice, steep right that stayed open for a while and he went all the way to shore. I caught a left that went deep and then closed out so I went right caught the inside build for a fun ride to the foam. Problem was, now the tide was out further and the sets were relentless so now you have a 5 mph side rip along with the incoming breakers to get out 75yds through. I ripped a booty so had to do some curbside repairs while nj battled back out. Second attempt heading back out to him I get pummeled just about out to the break by a big set that hit me, rolled me, wailed me on the top of my head with my 10’ DelRay, and then held me down rolling on the bottom for about 20yds. Got up, and felt nauseous and dizzy. Caught my breath, waded back up beach to spot to paddle out, and got hammered, hit again. I called it for myself when I saw him getting beat up in the break trying to come in. Cold and tired but he was stoked and the one good ride was enough. He’s hooked though, and looking forward to another shot.

 

Hahaha sounds familiar! Got a good feeling about this spring man. Hoping to get back up your way. That spot is pretty awesome

 

I know right!? I was telling him about that and he remembers the forum discusssion and could see what we were saying. It was legit like that day except the winds were more forgiving and it was a bit smaller but not by much - his ride, he disappeared for a good little bit before I saw him again going right... and a few of the sets that went through while we floated and caught our breath were monsters from behind. A lot of power in them for sure!
And I was thinking the same about spring. Now you know what to expect, and you have a base of operations, so we can jump around a bit if necessary - I heard point allerton was HUGE in the a.m. And like you saw in NESS, there are spots that work all over. NJSurfer30 was stoked for sure.

 

Hell yeah I was! Ended up meeting both MrBigglesworth and NotAMasshole today (can finally confirm that at least a couple of the users on here are actual people) and definitely a huge thanks to both for the warm welcomme and hospitality. Pretty stoked to get one of my longest rights in recent memory, maybe in memory period within about 60 hrs of becoming a New England resident. Definitely a bitch of a paddle out today... 3-5 times as long as any beach break I’ve surfed before except OBSF, and water was def noticeably chillier than it was in Jersey a week ago... but well worth the effort even if I only got one good wave in an hour and a half (timing these waves confused the hell out of me and my second paddle out mentioned in MrB’s post was followed by about an hour of paddling around missing waves, then getting caught inside by a very cold three wave set, and finally catching a wave way too late and just coming in on the whitewater). All good though... learning the spot and the waves is a big part of the fun and I am about 100x more stoked to have moved up this way after just that one ride.

 

My local was totally off its nut today. Picture perfect long long walls and tubes, head to head and a half easily...And consistent. Yesterday's crowd was non-existent, just me and a half-dozen of the boys. Not one closeout, not one blown wave. One of the top 2 days I've surfed this joint. I'm still geeking out over it.

I'm all over it tomorrow, more on tap.

As they say in SI's most famous treadde, "life is goode."

 

Hell ya guys. Yesterday was a fun one. Bit disorganized but patience was rewarded. Met up with NJsurfer30 for his first day (as a resident) up in NE. Weather was almost 40 and sunny most of the day which helped a lot with the navy seal training paddle outs. I managed to get a double session in as well thanks to the heat from the sun. Having an extra pair of boots to change into this time of year makes a big difference. Surfed our point in the morning on a shortboard. Made some big drops, connected a couple long lefts, and took some rights towards the wall that resulted in a pounding trying to get back out. Current was so strong that I was just floating in the boneyard and getting sucked all the way to the channel for next trip out. Got almost 2 hrs there and managed to save some energy for round 2. Went home and warmed up (never took off my suit) ate a bunch of peanut butter had some more coffee, grabbed the longboard and went down to the main beach. Paddled up to NJsurfer on the outside. Managed to get a few good ones, and the last one was money. All the OG's chilling on the break wall were stoked on my last wave when I came out, which is always reassuring. What a beautiful sunny day. It's incredible what the sun can do for your overall vibe, especially when the water is 38. Today we have a foot plus of fresh snow- what a difference a day makes. Hope yall got some.

 

Long paddle outs in winter up here are so painful. After 3 duck dives my head feels like it's going to explode. Fun waves yesterday. Took the big boy 7'6" board out, sat way outside, and picked off some nice sets. Got caught inside before I wanted to call it a day, but couldn't bear the thought of the 10+ duck dives to get back out, so retreated to a hot shower.

 

Got out the other day for the first time since I was in PR (Came home to a family that all had the flu which I caught a week later), finally felt good enough to surf saturday. It was cold and overcast, but went to check my usual go to spot. Waist high at best...mediocre. was having a hard time getting motivated. Convinced my friend to check another spot. Bingo, chest high with the once in a blue moon head high set and only a few guys out. Crowd dropped to 4 people all spread out within 10 minutes of me paddling out. Nice little afternoon session with a couple people I know.

 

Dammit, I knew I should have come down!

 

Yeah dude, that was a fun one to watch for sure!
At one point we all cringed but you held on and made it. Looked epic from shore

 

Navy Seal training is a great way to describe it I’d say lol
That shot to the head took most of the steam out of me. The outside was the right place to be for sure