Amazing day down here in Central fL. We deserved it after a long spel of crummy waves. Head high, clean, and barrelling. Had two sessions, surfed out
Nice! i hit a spot just north of sebastian inlet and not as clean but chest to head high range and delivering got punished in a few big closeouts but rewarded on other open faces.
Saw this pic from Satellite Beach, FL looks to be going off! Have fun. https://www.instagram.com/p/BvSm0e3BI6d/
Today we have crap conditions with crap wind waves, with crap cold air, with crap cold waters, crap cloudy day. As per usual. I think I will go take a crap........
Plenty of swell in the water this AM in NoMoCo. Wind was still too north and a lot of water moving around... That along with the cold rain made it unappealing. This afternoon should be super fun as wind turns more west
that's how it was for us down south. def keep your eyes on it. it was the following morning when we scored bigly
Balls deep in mud and flood waters right now. Finishing up a job. Just like last week, the West winds behind this storm look gnarls. Hope to get some tomorrow AM.
I snuck out of work 2hrs early today and surfed for 3hrs on the Green Fish. It was low incoming tide, chest - head high on the sets for about an hour, maybe 90 minutes, then slowly faded to waist high, maybe a chest high set every 30 minutes when it was getting dark.
Got my best wave of the year today and I am still pissed I missed so many more due to crowds and full moon high tide. Am I being a cry baby. Yes. That's what happens when the first wave is your best one, and the rest of the time you are out of position and making a few random drops. It was a sweet way overhead left, breaking slow, then picking up speed, with offshores grooming and holding up the face so a nice smooth cutback could be had, getting back into the pit. Had the 6'6" NA round ass round nose out for easy entry. Connected to the inside from all the way out. It was butter. Like Chinese food, it left me hungry for more. Tomorrow should be longboard heaven early. Heading to Rocky Reef Sandy Shores Ocean Cove Cay Municipal State County Beach Point Jetty Bluffs Park for some high tide magic. Life is goode.
As predicted, the wind knocked it down significantly by yesterday afternoon. There were a few nice sets still coming in for sure, but the wind was blowing 30 with gusts to 40. One of those eye burning "spray-in-the-face" sessions. Kinda sucked.... lol.
I went out yesterday, Bethany Hamilton-style with my bum shoulder. I actually held up the whole session without much pain. (Got my arthrogram scheduled on Monday for my diagnosis.) It was windy, but I actually got a few really fun lined up lefts and rights. Most of the waves were insignificant, however, being out of the water for 3 weeks really made me appreciate just being able to get my feet wet. I came out of that session refreshed and in a peaceful state of mind.
Yup, wind is howling here right now, offshores blowing at near 50MPH (as per bouy reports). Been like that all morning. A few went out to surf so I parked and watched them for a full 20 minutes--not one surfer could catch a wave, not one wave ridden by about 12 surfers. Waste of time. Had there been no wind, surf would have been great. It has been like this almost every single swell this winter....you get waves, you get lots of wind. We had no Nor'easters this winter. I blame the Mueller Report.
Barney, I mean Chris Farley, I mean JaimeL getting some waves somewhere west of Nias. Photo credit Johnny B Goode from Asu Surf Camp
nice...when we were in indo the wind was wrong direction for the Asu lefts, but that meant offshore for the Bawa rights. I really wish we had scored Asu...that looks like goofy foot paradise. Stoked for you man.!