who here has been surfing this week?

Thanks bruddah. Yeah it is a lot windier than Magic Seaweed led me to believe. We did get Bawa and Mini Bawa too plus Secret Right plus I got worked at Afulu but staying at the camp there in front of the left helped to get Asu whenever it got glassy or offshore. Plus this time of year, it was max four people in the water and they were all from our camp. I was the only one in camp for the last four days so I got Bawa with just me and Earl and got Asu with just me and Earl's wife. You got to go back Mitchell. Here is Bawa with the photo credit going to Asu Surf Camp and me just trying to avoid the "Bawalanche"

 

whats the cost per day for that place, also how are the mosquitos? are you taking larinum?

 

nice, thats how bawa looked when we were there. The plus sized sneaker sets were...

I got HAMMERED there a few times. At least for me, and as good as that wave was, it seemed like no matter where you sat you eventually got completely cleaned up

 

For sure and big guy boards do not duck dive. It is deep water wave but the power...

 

125 off season 150 in season I usually rough it but this year I splurge d and it was worth it because the Owner knows the place to be in all conditions winds etc plus two boats. I do take malaria pills to be safe but it is called Malarone but mosquitos are pretty minimal.

 

Yesterday was 9 foot at 12 seconds with 35 mph NNE wind making it VAS except a couple sheltered spots. Before dark the wind relaxed and there were some nice shoulder high plus peaks coming through. Got a few nice lefts, and since the peak was soooo crowded, I was looking for swing wides. Every now and then one would have a bit more size, miss the first peak, and break right fairly steep.

Had the 6'6" NA fat boy out, it's been working real good on these type of waves. Late afternoon drops with the sun in your eyes makes it hard to see the kooks and the groms on the inside, almost ran a couple over, then got out before I did. Life is goode.

 

Run the maggots over. They hate you anyways because you are not "one of them".
I have given up changing my path if on a wave and they get in the way. They will have three fin dings which will cost them a lot of money to repair.
And I will have notches on my fins. If only I could get little decals like the fighter pilots used to have on their planes during WW2. That would be cool. Hey....maybe that is a business I can start--have decals for all brand boards (small decals) to use to indicate how many maggots one took out??
Great idea huh?? What say all you morons??

 

^^^Tank Evans

 

Like this?



The moment of impact...

 

Perfectomundo!!!! Little queer should never have gotten in the way!! Ramming speed!!!

 

This free surf predicting website gave me false hopes of surfing today. Forecast was 3+, cams showed ripples. I was forced to increase shareholder value instead. Life can be hard.

The SL forecast was of course for nothing. Stopped clock, twice a day, etc...

 

a couple of surf forecasting sites had big hopes, but of course it's when i had to go to work early today that it's rippable. now i'm praying for leftovers tomorrow. of course, same huge window predicted monday when i have the day off. i'm gonna be ready to drive 2 hrs up or down the coast to try to make sense of it tho

 

Just got back from a day trip to nags head. Called an audible at 5 this morning and called out of work. Buddy and I made a snap decision and drove the hour and 20 min south. Surfed Jeanette's for five hours this morning until about 1. Completely gassed. Was solid shoulder with abt 50% of the waves barreling. Sets were solid head high occasionally overhead. Wish I had taken my step up... ton of juice, got a couple of solid lefts. Unfortunately, the last few times I've been surfing I haven't been positioning myself well and ended up taking super late drops (my "fvck it, I'll go for it" attitude doesn't help in wise wave choice either). Got worked a couple of times and flat out annihilated once. Taking the boy to swim lessons and then home to eat a pizza and drink beer. Today was a great day!

 

If I got some surfing and beer drinking in the same day I’m always gonna go to bed with a smile on my face

 

Delmarva - Two sessions this week in this junky onshore east ground swell.

Wednesday was a bit bigger but windier. All about waiting for the set waves that had enough face height to block the wind and clean up on the inside. Those were few and far between.

This afternoon was light winds, very warm out, swell sticking around at 3' @ 11 seconds. as is often the case around here, the wave heights didn't match the buoy data....it was waist high, but actually pretty fun on the mini simmons. Found a spot to myself and just started fun-hogging the mushy rights. 10 years after getting hooked, I still sometimes cant believe how much fun you can have on soft, lined up 2 footers on the mini sim quad.

 

No surfing, but I did ride Breckinridge today. I’m in CO until Sunday.

 

Found a sandbar yesterday that was pushing up some nice, glassy peaks. Waist to chest... definitely could have ridden the fish, but had the log, so...

Nice way to end the work week.

 

Nope, no surfing today.
But I did stay in a Holiday Inn last night......

 

Wind was dead all morning with chest-head high peaks rolling in. The Puddle Jumper carries so nice through the soft sections - I love this board.