who here has been surfing this week?

I checked several spots this morning, with the incoming high tide and weak short period swell I had low expectations. I ended up at a spot I haven’t surfed in many years, and low and behold it broke through high tide, in fact it got really fun at max high tide.

I rode the LB and caught wave after wave after wave. Conditions were glassy with light offshore to nearly calm wind. So much fun. Most waves were about waist high with a few in the chest high range.

I got some tip time, both lefts and rights, and rode many of them all the way to the beach. I think I’ll hit that spot againe.

 

What a day...

Having just come off a nasty stomach virus, I was feeling super weak. Ate a single blueberry pancake for breakfast... only the second "meal" going into day 3, and it felt like it just wasn't going anywhere. Took a ride down to the beach and it looked great...Clean, chest high, glassy rights... sunny and 60 degrees... nobody out.

Well... this is either gonna make me feel better or worse... Pulled the suite on, couple quick rubs of fresh wax on the boart, and headed down the beach, watching clean, green peelers lining up one after another.

The water was crystal clear and had warmed up considerably since last week. Ended up surfing with my hood down the whole time. Took it slow at first, but then started feeling really dialed in, and within an hour I was really taking it apart on the fish. It was one of those days where I think a fish is the perfect board... Long, running waves with two or three bowly power pockets wedging up as you went down the line. But I'll admit I did feel like the board was finding it's limits on a few of the bigger set waves... some approaching head high... going into turns with just a bit too much speed to really lay it all out.

Resting now... but I'd have to say... feeling better.

 

Today was a suprisingly good day. Shots of Rob Kelly and my youngest in OC.

 

For such a wonky day at IRI, this was the best session I’ve had in a while. Everything just connected today.

 

that's because it was really fun! started to fade around 6 p.m. but i had a blast yesterday. Nice to see rubber starting to come of....lots of 4/3, no hoods, and some guys without gloves.

from around 6

 

Kept checking my spot yesterday to see small, weak, windswell. Right at dead low I saw a surfable wave and thought it might get better with the incoming so I paddled out. And then it turned on. Solid shoulder and even the odd head high peaks with long rights. Unexpected and 100 percent appreciated.
I did not get out once last month and my mental state suffered(lots of personal sh!t right now). Third time out this month and its the best anti deppresant I can recommend. Life aint perfect but it's pretty damn good

 

Finally got a sesh in! Been dealing with some injuries. Tweaked a shoulder and have a pretty good high groin strain. Took two days off of work this week just to baby the injuries. No jujitsu training since Monday. Today was my first time doing anything since the groin strain. Probably wasn't the best idea as it's bothering me a bit now. But i got waves so it was worth it.

The bars are really starting to settle and conditions are alot better. It was waist high with calm offshores. Pure glass. Been awhile since i could say that! Mid tide heading towards high. Would of been fun on the mini but i loaned it to a buddy whos wanting me to shape him somthing similar. Sizing those types of boards is key so he's holding on to it so he can get an idea of what he wants. So i rode my handshaped single. First day on it with the type of waves i imagined riding it in. Some really fun ones but you had to pick em. Ther inbetweeners were dribbly. The good ones would stand up on the peak, then soften for just a second or two before standing back up. You could fade the takeoff, stall, or do a quick cutback depending on your positioning. Once you dealt with that initial soft spot the wave had some umph. Couple little turns, cruise, pull into the end section closeout. Lots of fun. Beautiful weather with air in the 50s. Could peel the hood back but needed to pull it back up for the paddles back out. One or two duck dives and you had a ice cream headache.

Was planning on going to an open mat sesh after the surf sesh but with this groin strain im passing. Going to bring wifey on a date, sit in the back yard on the dock and enjoy a few brews. Great start to the end of the weekend.

 

Got out down in RI this morning - fun waves, sunshine, water warming up. Hoods getting near optional (for longborters at least) but I didn't have my earplugs so wore one. Weird mix of lulls and sets today.

 

I missed yesterday - yardwork. Today was much smaller but I had fun on the minis. No hood.

 

Another fun day on the LB with high outgoing tide. I hit a spot not far from where I went yesterday. I had friends with me but none of them surf.

I paddled out thinking I may get lucky and catch a few. It ended up being way more fun than expected. I caught tons of lefts and rights, got some more tip time, tried tucking into a few micro barrels, got a little shade but not for long. Fun trying though.

As the tide went out it got better and the waves got bigger, maybe chest high on the sets. Long rides from outside and connecting all the way to the beach by walkng the boart and using the nose and tail to stay in the pocket and feel the glide.

Damn I love surfing!

 

As stated above it turned out to be another super fun day. The first spot we went to was pretty weak. Then we moved to another beach and it was super fun chest high peaks.

 

Here's some pics from Canaveral national seashore Friday... There was a scheduled engine test of the space x heavy rocket which was really cool to be within 2 miles of.

 

Hilarious!

Impossible to tell if this is ankle high or DOH.
You need a photo coach, fella. No don’t ask me to do it just pay someone. Mitchell, he’s an expert - just ask him, he’ll tell you.

I’d rather see the rocket engine pics than this swill, er, swell with no one surfing.

See what you can do about that

 

Lets just keep this topic positive.

 

Tuesday we are supposed to get a post-storm (small storm) swell. It seems to be the first day in a while that I haven't had an appointment, date, work, child caring event scheduled in about a month, when a nice swell is in. Seems winds will be not too bad (finally).
I will NOT wax my board, decide which board to use, get wet suits ready, or even THINK this will be good.....lest I jinx it.
I will just think about the most boring sport ever...baseball. Woody Allen used to do that when having sex so he would last longer.
Works for me.....

 

Sat morning was promising, but didn't get much out of it. Some ppl were saying Fri evening was better, maybe a stronger push, but the guy i was surfing with caught only a few as he did on our morning session. they were waist hi but breaking real close on shore. got worried about damaging the LB. kinda of a letdown, hoping for sumtin better. maybe need to get a surf trip planned out sometime soon

 

Fun weekend of waves in MoCo... Hoping for the trifecta today after work. Looked like a possibility when I checked it this morning, but the tide was really high. We'll see......

 

Good ole Playalinda. Love that place. Cue the jaws theme song.

 

Your knowledge is limitless Barry. BTW, I wonder if that trick is how he got his name?

 

Good one Mitch. That is funny!!
He said that in one of his early movies. 40 plus years ago.