I'm OK with missing surf like this past weekend when the fish are biting. My freezer is filling up with Rainbow and Brown trout. My wrist is still messed up but I'm getting a cortisol shot today. One more weekend of fishing in PA and then it's back to the surf for your Big Daddy.
Got out three days in a row. Pretty stoked. Not so stoked to see myself on cam doing some weak front side hacks... but I was jamming on my backside tonight. Couple fun ones out there.
I'm not sure what's gotten into spring but I'll gladly take it. After a dismal end to winter the swells just keep rolling in. Saturday was crazy good, a pretty longboard wave yesterday morning and today got surprisingly good. My wife shot a couple from the pier on Saturday and after surfing this morning I went back out with a new water housing and played around for a good 45 minutes. It just feels so nice to ditch those dam gloves and sport a 3/2. The only drawback is I have a really tan head and a very white body.
I surfed last night - talk about warm! Parking lot change at 7 p.m. into shorts and flip flops. 75 degrees out. Love that. Knee high waves but a good evening to swim around with the waterproof, catch a few waves. First session without gloves felt fine. Hardly anyone around on a beautiful warm evening - its still the offseason but feeling more like June.
surfed the other day. waves were chest high and choppy. nice and sunny. surfed with my brother which is always a treat. saw a coyote on my walk down to the waves. then saw a bald eagle molest the shit out of an osprey until the eagle got the fish from the osprey. did one turn that felt cool. good day. still hungry for more. nice pics above. makes me stoked on small east coast frothy days
Nice pics...your face in that second one is the universal response in that situation! Really like the angle of first one with the wave peeling and the pier in the background.
Hey hey whats happening? Positively good stuff being posted here. What's up new guy? That was fun spring swell, with the weather to boot, that came through this weekend. Saturday turned out way different than I was thinking it was going to be. I thought it would be a little peeling long board wave at most. Stayed home early and hit the beach later in the morning. I chose a spot that would the most long boardy. It was high tide. I expected it be small and mushy. I didn't look. Just grabbed a noserider ,no leash, and walked over the dunes. Found it waist high and bigger. Relentless and walled up. Took some work getting the log trough. I got as close as you get to being outside when a bomb came at of nowhere, whomped me, and took my ride back to dry sand. Sucked so bad. I went and got it, eventually made it out. Got into plenty of waves after. In early, no fade, right into getting five up front. When the wall got long, back to the tail and heave a turn straight. Let it crash and ride the reform all the way to the beach any way you want. The paddle back out was a little cruel and I lost my gear a few more times. But ended up surfing till noon. Had some fun in the neighborhood rest of the day. skating with the kids. Bourbons with the wife, lawn care, neighborhood get together a dusk. Brought a fish along with the LB for Sunday. Drove up to glassy waist to chest lefts. Fished it for a bit until it got to lully and switched to the LB and moved down to a smaller but lonely peak. Had a blast on both boards. Had some coffee and eggs before a walk at the arboretum and Sunday dinner at Grandma's. I'll take it. Hope yous guys get some more waves. Post up when you get a chance.
Finally got the stick wet, 3 days in a row no less. Monday and yesterday was pretty choppy. Yesterday evening after work had some size to it. Few heavy thumpers going off deep outside kept it interesting. This morning dropped out but had some clean and fun little LB’ers.
Oh man, I love paddling for a wave and having your face ripped off and getting blinded by the offshore spray! Ha Ha
hahahahahah holy moly it's been a while since i've been on this site. rhode island has been treating me very well. haven't missed a swell in the year and a half since i've been here at college. that's about to change with internships and a girlfriend. real life stinks great to see a lot of you guys are still posting on here. hope you're all doing well and getting waves!