Got some really fun waves the past couple of days. Saturday was gorgeous, minus periods of fog and funky air. I ended up finding a waist hi left wedge at the end of the day. Had it almost to myself as everyone else was surfed out. Got some sick cam rewinds too. Yesterday was a day for the books, for me. I checked it at 4:30pm and started out with low expectations. There were shoulder hi sets, but 30mph+ wind gusts... By 5 I finally chose the spot and paddled out with my pal. The wind steadily decreased the whole session, but the sets kept coming. I’ll be damned if we didn’t score! For a couple of hours I got some of the longest running rights that I’ve had in recent memory. I mean legit 5/6 turn waves. We literally felt like we were on a right hand point break. The off shores held the big sets way open. They would wall up and have these long open shoulders. Not every set was perfect, but I got too many good ones to count. Stoked.
got the deuce in this weekend, 1-3' saturday with the morning glass, tad inconsistent but took the center fin out of the 6'2" sting fish and slip-slided away for a few hours. Sunday didn't get out until the afternoon, same size, less crowd and mo wind chop. Rode a 6'0" tri squash and got a few.
Best part of this post..... paddle out at 5 and still have a couple hours to surf. Just a few weeks back you'd have 20 min of light! With the nicer weather comes crowds and flatness but there are some positives! Just about that time where i can start squeezing in sessions before work! Glad you scored kan! How's the shoulder been holding up?
I love this time of year, Bass. Getting out of the water at 8 o’clock is this shit. That combined with the warmth and freshness of spring. It just feels good. I have surgery scheduled for May 15, so I’m using this last month to surf as much as possible. My doc is saying I’ll be out for 5 months. So I should be back for the tail end of cane seezan.
Had my first surf in a couple months on Sunday. It was only my second since I came back from a week on Oahu about 11 weeks ago. It was waist to chest high and pretty clean. It was a pretty good time out there in the 46 degree water, but I got pretty sore. Working all those muscles I haven't worked in weeks! I'm out of work now for the next almost 5 months, outside of 10 days in July. I hate that it's not too warm yet here in Jersey. Been so busy with work that surfing has been hard to come by since late January. On the few days I've been able to, it hasn't been anything worth going out in. Would love to take another trip somewhere in the next few weeks. Just not sure where to go. I'll be doing an Oahu trip again before I go back to work in September. Forecast doesn't look any good the next few days, so I'll probably clean the gutters and do some house work. Fool around with the cars a bit and maybe my bike.
Sorry to hear that. My brother got a fin to the eye a few months ago, but fortunately was wound was superficial. Them fins are dangerous.
What's happening? That was another nice run of swell that came through. Read some good posts just now. I got a couple of good surfs in. Went out at one of my all time favorite spots on Sunday morning. Peeling and glassy little lefts. Was a blast riding the fish most of the morning. When the line up started to get clogged up, I had a coffee and switched to the nose rider. I drifted off into the fog and found a smaller wave to kook out on all by my lonesome. Got some long rides out there. Surfed till I was done. Had on lighter gloves and surfed without a hood. felt good. Bacon and eggs w/ rice and beans for breakfast on the back porch. Some yard work at grandma's and she cooked us a full turkey dinner. Lady cooked a 22lb bird. And she didn't forget the gravy. Got done early on Monday and got into a cove that blocked the wind to find head high warbly sets coming in a descent angle. Got a few good long rights and a couple of short sketchy dredgey lefts through a rock quarry. Went with lighter boots and gloves but kept the hood on. Had it by myself for a while so when dudes started to show up I figured that I already got mine and left them to it. Got home and had a full turkey dinner. Hoping for more swell. Spring has sprung.
Left San Diego at 5 and was at San O by 6. Walked to church and got a few fun waves before the tide kinda swamped it. Pretty fun wave, I’ll go back at low. Took out the LB at the point for an hour, then went to old mans for a little. Fun/small S in the water. Good day of sarfin’
Atta boy. It will help your recovery time and quality if your shoulder joint has good support and is strong. Two hips don’t lie Mano. I go April 29th for a visit with the Red Sox and Patriots physician tlfor ansecond opinion about shoulder replacements so mayhap we could be comparing recoveries lol. I’m working out and gonna surf until I can paddle, and that’s that... but those joints are gonna be strong.
You’d be surprised how many people are on the road at 5am..! I’m heading back up in the morning. Supposed to be a little more S filling in and I don’t have anything to do until noon.
Long island. Dude surfs really good too. I'll never forget getting out of the water and seeing some guy do a huge off the lip. Then i realized it was peajay.
Those MDs are top notch and doing stem cell injections with very fine needles with cameras on the end - no need for anesthesia just local and boom your good. It's a 15 minute deal. VisionScope. One of those dudes - Red Sox or Patriots head doc, I can't remember which one, invented it (is it the same guy?)- I can't remember which one but ask them aboot it. https://www.visionscope-tech.com/case-studies
Had that procedure done on my knee a few months ago. Different device, name is Mi-Eye. Knee swollen for 2 days, gimping, then healed up rapidly. Was surfing CR 2 weeks later, no pain no problems at all. Unreal.