Berry’s right Betty. Just being at or near the ocean is good for the soul. Stoked for you and hope you get in the water.
Show up and blow up! I love you Betty. I hope you have a wonderful day and enjoy the time with your crew!
You're so lucky to have local & SI support group, even one ride for the stoke leads to more and more as the love of surfing will save you as it has for others that paddled beyond severe medical set backs to surf again.
Thanks for the kind words Buoys Board is now waxed up. What a rush just waxing up my board And putting some of the gear into the car was so fun! Ranger said R2D2 wil be there... Forecast still looks gentle.
" Yankkee like this" on my previous post Thanks Yank, I was so sadden to read this thread about Betty; being a member of SI since 2010, thinking I was the only member that has walked in Betty's shoes. Even today, its still difficult to think about much less discuss on a forum as you and Mitchell know my story. It's so wonderful to see and read the inspirational posts of encouragement for her as Mitchell and you are my inspirations contributing to my success of surfing again. After a 2 year battle of just trying to stay alive the Doctor informs me I hope your physically 75% to live a normal life but you won't be able to surf again. What a crushing blow for me or Betty in her situation or any of us. You can sink so low into the "Why Me" syndrome and never come out of it like most who experience critical life threatening illnesses. My medical team thought that was route I was going to take but my desire to get back in the water again over came many obstacles. Betty, you have triumphed already, you have the courage to do this, the journey is difficult but we both know the rewards. I had many trials and errors to over come assorted handicaps but having the courage keeps you working at one more pop up and one more ride. I do remember paddling out for a 2 hour session and just succeeding at one ride, but that one ride was worth it, too feel the stoke again. I don't know what temporary issues your dealing with but when I began this journey had to over come the loss of 1/2 of my 6 pack that was used for reconstructive surgery and nerve damage just to name a few missing muscles. My first phase lasted 3 years until Yankee convinced to visit his surf camp in Costa that help me to finally fully pop up again. Because of all the damage was only able to ride dropped knee, didn't like looking like a KOOK but it was the best I could do. My second chance at life and surfing is constant working out and training but I beat the odds and so will you. I've have done it all during this Journey; if their is anything I can do to help you over come obstacles please feel free, we can post here, do PM's and send you my cell #. I know how hard it is and I will be here for you. Thanks Yankee & Mitchell for your continued inspiration and friendship Now I'm ready to share to help Betty ............
I appreciate you sharing all that, GF. I much admire your persistence and fortitude. Thanks. for the post
Samesies. You guys are awesome. I love our little internet community. It’s fun to bust each other’s balls, but at the end of the day I think all you guys are genuinely good people and we all got each other’s backs. Would smoke a joint with any of you. Except Wayne.
Yeeeeeeeeeeew Betty go for it! And yeeeeeew goofy! Had no idea. Thought you were just a regular dude on here. The two of you, as well as others, are super inspirational. Good on both of you!
GF: Such a heartfelt post— I really appreciate all you put into your post. You are def an inspiration. All the strutting around SI folks do, behind the scenes we all have our painful struggles, or Will have painful struggles. Some its psychiatric, some it’s physical, some have addiction, some have serious family problems...we are all in this boat, or on this board together...as Buddha might’ve said had he been a surfer dude...like it or not,we are all connected to each other onthe planet Earth... I am still on board for surfing tomorrow, and know I can bail at anytime if I have to...so many obstacles. Successful already just even thinking about it and doing the physical planning for it. EVen packing up for the trip is arduous, and may take hours for what used to be minutes...as GF might know.... I have a photo of myself on a 6’ wave from 24 months ago, and a waist high one from a year ago—I smile whenever I spot it during the day— was sick then, just not as impaired as now—it was brave then. A knee high wave would be impossibly brave now, But I WILL TRY, if not tomorrow, soon. This illness is permanent, but if it doesn’t get worse, surfing, can still be doable from time to time depending...
Too often, we - me included - whine about petty matters, not fully realizing many others must deal with things much worse.
