who here has been surfing this week?

We are still in 6/4 0r 5/4 s.
Aren't we lucky in this , what some morons consider, a "surf destination"? hahahahaha!!

 

booties and gloves ?

 

morning, couldn't believe i got up before my dp alarm. no rain or thunder, so i got my butt out there. lot more chop than yesterday, maybe the evenings are when to go - at least that's what i heard yesterday. decent paddle out, not too disorganized as far as the line goes tho. no one on the block but me and a couple buddies by the washout. had two fun rides down the line both ways, able to carve out a couple sections on my way to shore. didn't get worked too much or wipeouts, so all in all a success. glad there some underswell to score the to shore rides, those are the best exits into the reality of going to work

 

Just got back from a session with Yankee at a local spot I've been hitting lately at high tide. Lots of swell in the water. We got in for the last hour of incoming high tide and surfed into the first hour of outgoing. Yank had his LB so I figured I'd join him on the outside on my LB too. I had my fish and 6' M-80 but left them in the vehicle. You really could ride either, it just depended where you wanted to sit.

SB's were sitting on the inside getting short close outs and a few barrels as it dumped near the beach, and LB's on the outside where the bigger sets were breaking but it was tricky getting one. There was a South to North drift due to the S / SSW winds and the peaks were a bit shifty. Some would swell up and then back off as it was take off time, others would break and push all the way to the inside getting more hollow as it hit the inside bar.

We did manage to grab a few nice size waves in the chest - head high+ range. My first wave was a right (backside) and it was an easy take off with a steep wall on the inside, I took it a little too far in and had to take a few on the head to get back out. After catching my breath and searching for another, I had a nice size set wave come to me and it swelled up on me pretty good, I took off, got to my feet, and then the bottom dropped out and I free fell in slow motion as I stared at my boart and fin right in front of me and I just braced for impact, covered my head, and it just barely missed me as I hit the water unscathed. I thought for sure I was gonna get it upside the dome piece.

Stoked, threw a fist in the air and paddled back out and shortly after I caught a really nice left that made my morning, I rode it to the inside and kicked out right as it detonated, yeeeeew!

I saw Yankee had ridden one to the beach after I got back out so I took another wave to the inside, then bellied it in, then played cat and mouse with the shore pound getting out. Good times!

 

I went 2/3, boots, no gloves a week ago in SNJ.

 

Looking like an LB type swell next few days. Picked this up off of CL last month...gonna see how she goes soon!
8’9”.

 

WOW great to finally hear some ppl are switching to a 3/2 in jersey.. I was out a week ago in an old and leaky 4/3 with boots and 3m gloves and was fine... of coarse if you surf Belmar, that water is always above 60 due to the help of the Labradors...

 

We are still in winter gear here. Starting ti ditch the 7mills and get down to thinner booties and gloves. Hood's are pulled back. Could get away with a 4/3 or even a 3/2. I do this same dance every year. It's getting warmer but i just surfed all winter in a 5/4. Im used to it. When i start feeling it's too much, I'll drop. Until then I'l just stick it out. No rush.

Was a foggy morning. Mid tide heading towards high. Buoy was showing a little somthing. Could of gone either way. Only way to know is to go so i gave it a look. Through the fog it was hard to see but there was a wave. A bit soft. Thigh high with some waist high guys. Took out the 5'2 mini sims.

It was fun. With the tide filling in some would look good but back off, some stood up pretty nice and further outside then the rest. Which was difficult with the fog. Nothing epic but me and a buddy caught a few which was enough.

Favorite wave was a right. It was a rare one with some wall to it. Dropped in and went right into a cruisey carving top turn/ cut back sort of thing, then just flew down the line. Front foot inching towards a cheater five but didn't quite get there, rest of the body leaning back with both hands dragging doing my best to pretend i was getting barreled. Kicked out and said to my buddy "who said you can't get barreled on a 2 footer? Whoever it was.... he was right".

Nothing special but i had fun. I almost died thursday. Legit. Sketchy electrical work in an old restaurant that's being renovated. Got rocked by the "dead man's leg" because some douche thought it would be a good idea to flip breakers while people were working. Was feeling terrible the past few days. Felt better this AM. After the fun surf, i feel like myself again. Some fun waves was just what the doctor ordered.

 

Small but fun LB waves today for Yankee and I at a crowded spot on high - mid outgoing tide. We each got a couple dozen waves. Better than nothing for sure. Typical Spring / Summer day. Time for grub and cold brews.

 

Saturday afternoon..took out the 5'2 twinnie for a spin in some glassy waist high peelers. Water was at or above 60 i'd say. 3/2 without boots was fine. From around 6 p.m.

Beautiful spring weather....HEAVY storm with rain rolled though mid afternoon, and left dead calm winds and sunny haze aroudn sunset. perfect dead calm winds for small surf.

 

What a fun weekend! Yankee and I were able to surf together the last 3 days and break bread and drink some cold brews. It was a pleasure showing him around to some local restaurants and having him over at the house. A truly good dude.

Our session this morning didn’t seem promising at first after checking several spots up the coast and none were breaking on the mid - high incoming tide and fading swell.

Not to be deterred, we ended up back at the same crowded spot as yesterday, only we had the place to ourself for half of the 3hr session. We caught so many waves we lost count.

Conditions were semi-clean with a slight bump from the light South winds. Waves were mostly waist high with a few a bit larger on the best sets. Some fairly long rides on the LB, many almost all the way to the beach.

Way better than expected given all the spots we checked. Thank god for this very consistent small wave / high tide spot. If only nobody else knew about it.

After about 90 minutes there was an insta-crowd, so we moved to a different peak not far away and got it good there too.

I’m glad Yankee was able to surf each day he was here because after the one larger day of swell it dropped off quite a bit.

Today was better than yesterday somehow and it didn’t really make sense but we weren’t arguing with what the ocean had in store for us.

 

Trekked through the dunes on Pea island today...one of the longer walks out there. I was thinking LB but was happy to be able to surf my shorty on some weak SE waist hi beachies. Had to dodge a storm or two. Few guys out, I walked down the beach and surfed a sandbar to myself...not quite as stoked as Betty but it was nice to be out.

Glad I didn’t listen to all the hype about trunking it down there. I figured the upwelling was creating some chilll to the water. 3/2 was perfect.

Hoping this low gives us days of surf. Looks somewhat promising.

 

Mitch's photos capture the day. Saturday was fun with small wave gear. I took out the longboard and caught some fun knee to waist high peelers. Surfed for 4 hours and took a nap on the beach. Warm air, warm ish water and no boots or gloves required.

 

after a disorganized ocean day better spent at my buddy's pool, got in this morning fingers crossed. still some soft swell stomach to waist leftovers by the folly pier. still haven't rewaxed the LB, so one i got in late going right i thought i was gonna slip off of but held tight, took it to a couple sections and even a bit more. had a couple of those going, and plenty of time to feel good to leave and get to work on time. Did spot my first hydrofoil boarts, they were comin in when i was getting out

 

In front of my place was all time today. Felt like lowers on a good day. 3-6 turn waves and so playful.
3-5’, light onshore winds and a rising tide. 2-3 wave sets every 7 minutes. Like clockwork.. no one out either.

 

Just returned from 3 daze of surfing the east coast of FLA with DP.

A more hospitable, kind person you will not find than DP. He was tremendous, showing me the breaks, what works & why, and he called it correctly every session. DP is also a good boart rider, and that third day when we had zero expectations at Cocoa Pier he had easily 50 waves ridden.

The trip was about surfing, but as much about sharing the stoke. Camaraderie. Friendship. DP & his lovely wife opened their home to a superb feed for a visitor as the lightning storms raged outside. It was a sublime evening.

Many thanks DP - - I had a fantastic surf trek thanks to you folks.

 

Little slop session this evening. Water temp dropped back a bit. Wore a 3/2 with 3mm boots. Could have used thin gloves.

 

Very kind of you sir, and you are very welcome, the pleasure was all ours. We’ll do it again, hopefully in the not too distant future.

 

I’m into my 4/3 and was comfortable last Sunday. Water is 49 at buoy. If water is 45 or better and air temp is over 50 a 3/2 works pretty good, although booties are still a good thing. Saw several guys surfing with no hoodie last Sunday.

 

Glad you're now feeling OK, Bass. Be careful with that electrical work. That foul-up should be taken seriously. Are power switches/breakers tagged out when electrical work is being done, as is done in the Navy?