who here has been surfing this week?

Green boards got the steez

 

Got out this afternoon into some decent sets buried under sideshore chop and slop. Couldn’t gauge speed under the mess so I missed a fair amount and got pearled twice! Buuuuut, also caught some sweet drops and had fun pumping around sections and getting back into the face on the inside sections for a fun ride to the foam. Water was warm(anything over 50 feels warm to me) and the 3/2 Dawn Patrol with 3 mil booties and gloves was perfect. Wish it cleaned up more but it was still fun and got a great paddle workout...now the shoulders are howling but a bunch of Summer Shandys will take that away... it’s funny but the last two sessions I’ve surfed I’ve been completely comfortable paddling in late, popping up on the face, all of it. The transition has suddenly become something I dont even think about. It’s just; if I’m early, I paddle hard and plan my direction. If I’m late I just plan to pop as soon as that foamy curl hits my feet and it’s been 100%
It’s the reason I’m making these steeper drops and turns and then still finding speed to go back up and get into the grove and pay around with trim and speed and seeing ahead of the boart and so I can plan for closeouts or sections and get to them before I get tumbled. It sounds goofy but it’s a big deal to me because my surfing has made another huge leap and I’m digging it. If I get that next session and it’s clean and chest/head the Roberts is my next goal. I’m hoping I’ll be able to use it down in BassMon land next month!

 

East swell with a push into high , son number 1

 

Love your stoke, Biggs. Get some!

 

Had a very summer like day on the old Delmarva. Surfed for an hour or so this morning (thigh high, clean) then hit the bodyboard for 3hrs while wifey sat on beach. Beers to follow soon. Surf was nothing special but I haven't bodyboarded since last summer so that was a blast. In the words of Ice Cube - today was a good day.

 

I give what I get Kan, and the stoke here is always a welcome point to my days! And I also know that everyone in their own levels here can get where I’m coming from and appreciate it - brings back good memories. That’s part of stoke, to me anyway. I was thinking of you on some of those long paddles back after being blown down the beach with rips and wind swell. What a great workout and great time to practice rhythm verses bulling my way through the wind spray and waves.

 

LB and Fish session today, it was better on the LB. Tomorrow looks fun.

 

I did same this morning before low tide, holiday crowds, and mid 90s heat hit. Thigh to waist high. Hope to do same tomorrow AM.
Some dolphin near the shore with their youngsters. Water felt much colder than the reported 68. Must've been some upwelling since yesterday or during the night.
Steel Pier surfing contest and other festivities at the Oceanfront this weekend. The "surfing season" begins...

 

Hit it again this afternoon - wore the shortsleeve 2.5 hyperflex no booties or gloves... too soon but holy shit the WAVES! Groomed, offshores, and pumping. Sets varying from waist/chest to OH monster rights and closeouts. And I surfed the Roberts!! I caught a good dozen rides and each one got better and easier and even had two nasty hard bottom turns, one by accident and one by pure need - and stuck them both. I have the sweet spot dialed in fornpaddling, foot placement so the tail doesn’t drag so now it’s just getting that pop up
Smooth and consistent. But I was pumped to get into some big waves and get up and ride down those faces on it. Great day and shoulders held up. The board is actually easier to paddle for
Me than my fish. Great day buoys. Great day

 

Amen

 

Water warmer this morning - back up in the upper 60s - but choppier than yesterday...waist high. Beat the holiday crowds again.
Enjoy your Memorial Day and appreciate the hard earned freedoms we have in this country.

 

LB heaven this morning, waist high and glassy with a few larger sets as the tide dropped. Some long rides all the way to the beach. I had a blast surfing with a buddy of mine from Jax. Great conditions, typical Spring / Summer swell.

 

Really fun swell this wknd. Longer period(?), direction(?) offshores(?) Don't know, I leave that for greater minds.

Sunday was sublimely superb all day long. Got 2 sessions in, out of shape = fried by 8pm.
Went a few miles into the TPTSNBN on Sunday morn. Zero people in the water it was a treat: turn & burn for hours. Evening sesh @ State also fun, good energy from the ocean.
This morning also fun.

Capper was the drive back in decent time, 160 miles in 132 minutes to beat that insane trfk.

Great to see many American flags flying on the eastern shore, very different from asshatland of metro DC.

 

Best I can do. Wish I could get more photos.

 

Finally able to get in the water this week after a month sidelined with a foot injury. Take good care of your feet boys, there are so many bones and muscles in those puppies, and I've broken, fractured, sprained, torn a bunch of them and probably more to come doing stupid stuff.

Anyway, went north to Jax to spend the Holiday weekend with my folks. I did a sunrise session at my home break this morning, and for some reason that long period swell Central Florida got today was not making its way up there yet. It was knee, thigh high, grovel material, but so glad to go out and get a little more confidence from the injury. Plus, it's always nice to just be in the place where I learned to surf, sitting out there, watching the sun rise, even if conditions are crummy. Just so familiar and friendly, I think the best wave, which was a glassy waist high left, came as soon as I paddled out. A nice "welcome back, old friend!". Caught a couple of small sectiony ones that had opened up. The beach had a bunch of people, more than normal for 6:30 am, watching the sunrise. An activity I think people should do more often, to kick start their day and put themselves in a positive state.

Anyway, getting ready for tomorrow, supposed to be pretty fun.

 

Made it out to the beach Sunday, with my girl and her squad. We took their Jeep and went off road. It was just an absolutely gorgeous day, with perfect offshores in the am and waist to stomach hi sets coming through. Fun little A frames. I definitely saw some makeable barrels in the mix.

Not gonna lie, it pained me to sit there and just watch. Motivation to get right I suppose.

 

Sunday was an amazing day on Delmarva....non stop fun sized waves and zero wind all day. Surfed the longboard in the morning, 5'2 twinnie in the evening. Actually liked the twinnie better. New board for this year and its in high rotation lately. Very fast board.

Bright back lit ones are from mid morning, darker shots from around 8 p.m Sunday evening.

 

MOTIVATION. And food for the soul.