Don't look at the cams if you can't get out

i surfed yesterday afternoon in a 4/3 and vest underneath and was plenty warm - you can do it

 

You should be fine in a 4/3. I used to only wear a 4/3 up until last year i bought a 5mil with attached hood. Previously i wore a 4/3 ripcurl core fireskin and it didnt even have an attached hood.

 

No go for me today been at work since 8am and will not leave til 8pm plus a hour drive each way .

Making $$$$$$$$

 

OCMD looked way too fast and closing out in the morning. Probably much better in the afternoon with more water.

 

THIS SUCKS!!!

I'm so obsessed with the cameras at this point there's really no point of me being here.

PS: Irish Exit = Failure: boss caught my ear on the way out the door.

Boss: "where you heading"

Me: "Not gonna lie, waves are firing and i want to go get some, all my buddies are all over it"

Boss: "All of your buddies must not have jobs"

Me: "True"
Really thinking - $hit!

 

HAHA. same **** here

 

Just got out. Waves were SUPER fun. Nobody was out..... just me and my buddy. They were starting to line up pretty nicely too.... 1 hour before dark was epic.

 

South OC was rolling man! Morning was a blast with more barrels, then when the tide came up it was peeling in. So nice! I was out for 4 hours and suffered a leash plug snap in between sessions. All in all it was amazing! One dude surfing near me said it's the best he'd seen that area in years.

 

Yeah, I have no doubt of that. I'm too old and too slow to my feet to make the best of a quick barreling wave. I prefer a little tide that fattens them up a bit and gives me more time to get going. Glad everyone got some good waves, I would have done it this afternoon but family duties kept me home.

 

Great afternoon session in Manasquan. Everyone was getting waves, a couple of head high sets, good vibe in the water. Great day!

 

just got monmouth county so so good. surfed from 1 - 4:30, just me and my buddy trading waves all afternoon. before dark was definitely epic. can't ask for more

 

its about head high and some pretty decent barrels. guys were getting full on shacked

 

this is truth! i managed to squeeze in a quick session after school. stopped at my mechanic to have him look at a minor coolant leak, then off to the waves! was out from about 4:15 till dark, just me & a few other guys. very, very fun surf!

gotta say that as a teacher, i LOVE finals week...none of the kids ask to stay after for help & i can grade exams anywhere!


oh! & i found out today my tentative trip to the maldives this summer is ON! so stoked i can't stand it!

 

I believe we are gaining a minute of daylight every day now.Not a big fan of winter...

 

Looking to get out tomorrow even if it is small.I think it should be like 45 and sunny.Maybe my seal buddy will be out there again.