who here has been surfing this week?

Drone shot above Rincon by the Sea looking up the coast to Little Malibu

 

North coast looking fun all week

 

winds about to go offshore here in the next few hours - looks consistent chest and good swell direction

 

im packing my stuff up now

 

Took a longboard out for a few hours early this afternoon. Some waist to stomach high peelers. Fun change of pace. My buddy and I were the only two out where we were.

 

Same... felt weird on the log. Had to get used to it.

 

logged it yesterday. missed the rising tide due to prior plans, but managed to get those thi hi thrillers out on 6th Folly. no booties nor gloves, very nice surprise. forecast is shotty at best and now i'm thinkin i won't take my planned thurs n fri days off as the forecast is bleak north and south of me. supposed to heat up tho, so i'm looking forward to get sht done around the house. built a surf rack out of pallet boards, making another one this week - getting the den/garage organized for summer. Might keep my eyes peeled for the followign weekend to make a run at a surf filled wknd

 

Closed down PR , the beaches are off limits which translate to No Surfing

 

Wow...Spain's beaches are closed too. Wtf it seems pretty counterintuitive. Shouldn't it be pretty simple no group gatherings on beach?

 

I was in Puerto Rico last month and the crowds were so thick at some spots it might have qualified for the 50+ rule.

 

South Jersey was firing at high tide. Wind went SW and I'm guessing this evening will be good up North.

 

Getting ready to go up here soon. Need that offshore to kick a little stronger but plenty of swell

 

Couple of shots from this afternoon.

 

...but did you land it?

 

I have a nice sequence of my son landing one yesterday. The one of him in the top frame was landed but was to high up and got stuck on top of the wave. The bottom shot of RK would have broken a board or an ankle from that height. He was over top of it and connected until the last second before touchdown. I have the full sequence. Just getting to that height is an accomplishment if you ask me. He's matched the height of the wave.

 

RK landed this one though.

 

Here is a make I animated a while back.

 

Been surfing almost every day... and man, do my boots reek. Those 5 mils just don't dry out overnight.

 

Mine too, I had to take them out of the closet and put them on my enclosed front porch. Now the front porch smells vile, been using the back door.

 

Real fun session yesterday. No wind, long chest high peelers with a few plus sized sets. So easy, probably the easiest day this year. Shoulders hate me for all the long paddle backs to the lineup. Crowds were pretty low considering school is out and the weather was perfect. Swell was dying a little when I got out of the water but still looked fun, and there was maybe 3 people out.
Hope all you swellies are safe and panic free. This will pass... and there will always be more waves