who here has been surfing this week?

West coast has been on crack for a week or more. Well outside of my comfort zone, so I've stood back and watched. Supposed to be 6 to 10 at my local today, so I'm going to take my dog for a walk. Bonus is that my daughter is her visiting from the east, so we can take a stroll together.

 

My boots stink like a bum's foot was hacked off and left to root in my bootie, but worse.

 

I just watched a vid posted today of a barrel fest at Blacks, it looked insane.

 

Buddy of mine is a guard stationed there. He was just talking about it a little while ago.

Got a link to that video?

 

might i sugest sneaker balls in the booties. just started a couple weeks ago doing that again, seem to forget every time the winter approaches but it's helpful

 

Dude go to YouTube and search Blacks Beach surfing. There's been 3-5 vids a day there for over a month and it has been as big and perfect as I've ever seen it, but I cant remember the last time Cali got this consistent run of swell. And Blacks was my daily driver for a number of years.

Meanwhile, we have had the same exact run of stormy rainy windy 2X-3X OH surf...our storm systems are feeding the rest of the West Coast. Needless to say, I haven't surfed much lately.

But all the storms are uncovering some major agates here, which are highly prized by the locals

 

I’ll repeat myself. Rip curl piss off will take care of any suite smelle.

 

I got a rock tumbler for my kid for xmas, it's frickin loud. We have a couple agates in there, sea glass, anything cool we could find. Half way through (it takes well over a week), they are already looking sick, can't wait for the finished product.

 

Got out for a bit this morning. Had to go at first light to try to beat the tide. Still really swollen at like 4.5 feet when I paddled out. Not much beach and a lot of rocks rolling around on the inside. Got a few fun lumps that just keep rolling and rolling to the inside before dumping. Made the right decision to pull out before that happened. Coming in was a challenge. One small section of sand was still visible and had to time it with the sets to keep from getting dumped into the rocks. Still fun. Looking forward to surfing the next few days as it looks like it's going to be more my speed.

On another note, just picked up a new Vissla 4/3 chest zip in Camo, so no one should be able to find me now.

 

Got back to the pier this afternoon and its still rideable at 2ft. Music from the restraint kept me in the water longer than I shoulda stayed...lots of cool fish in really clear water. Mostly lefts and that suites me fine. Long smooth energetic waves peeling off nicely for a longboard. Some bigger sets rolled in so I sat up and let the short boarders have their fun as well. Good crew in the water today.

 

There's a spot near me with a pier-restaurant setup. On evenings in the summertime they'll have reggae or cover bands. It feels really special to be surfing in warm water at sunset to some live music.

 

Pick up a speargun, weight belt, fins, and mask/snorkel...

 

What am I hunting?

 

Thanks, but I like the smell, it smells like...victory.

 

Whatever's in season, in whatever season it is. Where do you live/surf/dive?

 

SoCal

 

Some quality waves around New Jersey this morning.

 

Man.. You guys have some serious surfing skills and photography skills. Thanks for posting everything you do. I truly enjoy it