who here has been surfing this week?

like the report and including the post-sesh “what you grindin’ on?” recipe share.

5’5 is a wee lil egg in bigger stuff depending on the shape.

14s period is looooong for the EC

 

took it to Cocoa 4th S for the Saturday morning and afternoon sessions. Brought the 6'4 alchemist and the 6'9 loehr. Shoulder to head hi on Saturday, some of our best sessions were likely from that day. Next morning was at 2nd light, sharp break that cracked my buddy's 6'6 7S board on the rail on a drop. Waves were getting bigger, but we didn't think it would hold in the evening. Cruised down further south, got to Ocean Ave of Melbourne and saw overhead long lined out swell. Parked illegally in a permit parking beach spot and paid for it. Didn't get a ticket, but had karma kick my ass on the paddle out. Managed only several rides, hoping a redemption sess on Monday would happen. And it did, took it back down to Cocoa and got chest to shoulder leftovers. Buddy traded his 7S boart for a same size first generation Firewire and got to give it a good run that morning. Didn't get burnt, got some sessions (no memorable ride), but all in all a good surf trip down the coast despite having the 3/2 all dryer'd up every time

 

Same swell hanging around since Saturday. Same shape and pattern to the waves, just smaller now and much more manageable on the 5'5. Skipped out of work at 3:30, in the water by 4pm. There was only 1 other car parked at the spot, and this dude was acting strange.

He was sitting on the back of his car when I pulled in. I'm suiting up and I look over and he's kind of watching me? I noticed that he's now suiting up too and he has a board in the car. By the time i'm done and walking down he's still suiting up. I was out there alone and kept waiting for him to walk over the dunes but it never happened. When i finally got out his car was gone... so he suited up and just left? I was worried my van got robbed but nothing happened. Anywho...

Againe the bigger waves were lined out and not worth it so I held the line in the middle section, taking the bigger waves on the head and picking of the mid-sized that would stay open. According to my fancy surf watch I caught 13 waves in an hour and covered 3.1 miles between the waves and paddling. I know it missed some waves too as they were really short duck-into-the-closeout type rides.

I went home to find my wife super jealous that I got to surf while she was still at work. We cracked a couple beers, made some roasted veggies with fresh Italian bread, and put some lil smokies on top. Was actually a really good meal. Hoping for some leftovers at low tide today (the surf not the food).

 

Couple of the bigger ones from early this morning. Pictures are grainy cause it was low light and snowing like crazy. Missed a lot of shots because the camera was focusing on the snowflakes instead of the wave or surfer.







This shot gives you an idea of what I was dealing with. Guess I need to manual focus in the snow next time.

 

About to be hammertime!! Awesome photos CJ, even with the white stuff.

 

That's my 15 year old. The kid takes off behind sections and pulls in. Always going for it even when he was 10 or 11 years old. That one was a little too ambitious. Gotta give him credit for taking off on one of the biggest bombs of the morning and putting himself in that spot.

 

great photos CJ. frosty lookin slabs. where you at again?

 

Wind had too much north in it for a session up here today. It's times like this that I miss
CM. All of S Jerzy, really. Big, clean lefts... damn. Memories.

 

Got out and got worked pretty good today, got caught by a pretty big outside set, made it over number one and two, punched through number 3, and had number four detonate on my head. Swallowed a lot of water, very humbling, but I was warm! Pics are from late afternoon, size dropped a little but there were still big outside sets keeping everyone honest

 

Bro if those pics are of you then the impact zone saga was well worth the coverage on those later rides. Good pics

 

Not me job, I take pics of random people (and friends, I like suprising them). I didn't look that good yesterday.
Still might be some energy today, I'm about to head out the door and take a look

 

Nice little long period pulse yesterday at low. Sets in the chest high range, light side-offshore wind. Cold.

 

Fun day, still waves out there. I hit up an easy point, got some long rights, super fun, and hardly anyone out. In fact, I had it to myself for almost an hour. Floundered my last half hour looking for that "last one", but all is good. Had one solid nice wall that was oh so rippable, that wave will stick in my mind for a while. Next spot over had hardly anyone there and was definitely still firing, I think a lot of people are surfed out today. Life is good.

 

Spend some time last weekend just north of my hometown in the Canaveral National Seashore. Camped out all weekend with almost perfect weather. This particular place they number the beaches so I surf beach 3. Probably just as good as anywhere else over the weekend here in Florida. We had a pretty decent swell come in and it looked like everybody was enjoying it. Me and my girlfriend just did a little tent camping built us a nice little fire and just enjoyed the evenings Friday and Saturday evening there was a little bit of wine and a little bit of herb a lot of surf and a lot of food. Super long. Of swell but this beach bases North so it was breaking really nice to the left. I Road my 7 foot 2 in custom and occasionally trade it off with my girlfriend for the longboard. Nothing super Epic but really fun waves. Backed it up Sunday evening go home and I have to say it was nice being without the internet

 

O to be young. I get in that spot and I'm in PT for 2 weeks.

 

A friend got a nice sequence of him that morning. A couple of frames from it.

 

Great pic s of your youngest CJ . 1 st s swell in weeks with clean water and side offshores . A season of bad water , bad wave angles , bad sand bars , no sun with obnoxious crowds .

 

A pair of CMP s , Stewarts delivered last week .

 

Nice !