who here has been surfing this week?

gotta love working on the wknd, not really. Been busy as sht for last several months, covid to blame. Last night's sunset session was solid. Textured, lil northerly drift, but size was bigger - bout chest hi. Def longer lines. Had some nice rides to ride out, some to grab the rail to. This morning, early ass sess on the LB with an amigo. Slow lumps would form and just build up, saw couple death traps i'm glad i didn't take off into. Still had some waves to pop in and out. Best wave of the day, last wave, took down right rode a beautiful line i got to duck my under and pump even further to shore. Surfers are lined up here at Washout, luckily it was my buddy, I and another guy that stayed off on one side of a break. Clean, lil boring, but sizeable

 

Surfed Friday in some sloppy, onshore, 2' garbage. March has got to do better than this...

 

It's been flat for a while up here, damn high pressure systems.

 

Surfed Sunday morning, started off at 6th E with a buddy and his fam then migrated to North Washout for another hour. It wasn't pumping, slow crumbly down at 6th with mostly stomach hi's. Took out the Loehr 6'9 fish but had nothing special as far as rides, not much to go down the line with. Washout provided a lil more fun on em, mostly lefts. Drifted south and almost into the crowds, but it wasn't a hard drift and my hour was about up then anyway. It was warm, and the waves were bountiful. Good wknd, and for today i'm resting the arms. Got something going on for the next week churning in the water, likely ride bout it tomorrow morning

 

If last year is any indication it will be very difficult for me or my son to get motivated to surf until the water warms up a bit. That is a real downside to doing a late winter tropical trip. Makes paddling out in garbage surf back home with water temps in the 40s a real difficult thing to do. Will probably take 55 degree water or a damned good swell to get either of us motivated to suit up.

 

My surfing bud used to go to La Ticla in Mex every winter for 2-3 months for almost 20 years straight. Then he'd come home to the PNW around this time of year when it's still cold and wild.

I'd try to get him to paddle out, but he'd be looking at it like someone crapped on his corn flakes. I get it.

 

out n bout yesterday for an evening sess. Wouldn't have taken it on, but a buddy needed someone to push him to ride out there. He got two new boards, but as mentioned above he became a it of a sour puss in the cold since a surf trip down to FL 6 weeks ago. I stuck with the same fish i've been using. It was choppy and windy, but size was still there, still chest hi's and even shoulder hi's on occasion. Not a lot of ppl at Washout, they probably didn't expect it to come bout after a 5pm lo tide but i thought it was pretty evident it would. Buddy got to try his 6'1 sharp eye disco, but he didn't properly rewax and he looked like he was on skates. Nothing stands out memorable from yesterday evening, just some lefts that i was able to drop in barely and ride out

 

Yesterday is an example of why I never miss a swell, even the tiny, s****y, blown out crap.

It was ideal conditions at my local, 4ft at about 7 seconds and a light NNW breeze. Any longer period and it's closing out around here, but that 7 second period hits the bars just right for some small but wide open tubes. When the conditions get good like this it brings out the fair weather folks, but dudes, if ya don't stay in shape, you're going to mostly be watching guys like me catch all the best rides.

So I paddle out after work and there are 4 other guys out. I'm on the LB picking off the bigger sets when they come thru. So many long rides and small tubes. I lost track of time and space. By the time it got too dark to surf my cup had overflowth. I was in that giddy, stupified post surf sesh mode. I needed it too.

If you have made it this far you're a forume regular so I'll tell ya, that grain of sand guy annoys me with his posts going after surfboard shapers. Did you notice? I hate that I got so aggro with him but I know a dozen shapers and none of them are oppressing anyone. In fact they are all family guys who are scraping by doing what they love, and supporting up and coming riders when they can. I respect them, and I'll defend them.

Anywho, I came home from the surf feeling much better and made some bean and veggie quesadillas and fell asleep early on the couch. All in all, great day to be alive and be a surfer.

 

I made it that far. I feel ya.

 

Damn I mad it as far as carson

 

Been so flat up here, and so busy with work... glad some of you guys been scoring, maybe a bump tomorrow but not even sure if I have the time. Such is life.

 

Got out again last night after work. Smaller, less clean version of Tuesday. Still some fun waves to be had. I have already netted 2 sessions thanks to daylight savings!!

Ditched the hood a week ago, and next session - no gloves

 

Took the dog for a walk up to the beach last night right before dark and was surprised to see a really fun and glassy chest high wave coming in with only a handful of people in the water.

 

small but fun... That's my orange board..its a 9.0 I got a fatass pivot fin in it.

 

Glassy waves Thursday am , water was a balmy 41 , a good pulse tormented by hard onshores mid morning .

 

Got out for about an hour at one of the town beaches. The one spot that had long peelers was crowded, I couldn't get myself to add to the pack, so it was a bunch of closeouts for me, 2 to 3 second rides. But the weather was beautiful, it really glassed off by noon, and being able to get out with my kid here is rare(her friends grandpa kept an eye on them). So all in all I'll call it a great sesh. I'll take an hour of closeouts any day instead of being stuck on dry land.
And curl, you really hooked me up. The weather is turning but I had a great winter season thanks to you. Pretty soon I'll get a chance to try out that 4/3. I still haven't had a chance to pick up my scallops, hopefully when I'm finished with the job I'm on I can make the trip, if you aren't allergic to shellfish I have to hook you up.

 

My son surfed both days this weekend in a 4/3 with no hood in South Jersey. Spring has sprung.

 

On Sunday I told myself to hang up the 5/4 for the season. Had my hood down the entire session.

 

Thursday and Friday are supposed to be 75 and 80 degrees, respectively, in Delaware with fun sized and offshore both days. Its always interesting to figure out the best wettie option for 47 degree water, 78 degree air with offshores, and waves small enough that duckdiving is really not going to even happen at a jetty spot. I'm thinking about going a notch lighter rubber myself

 

So slammed with work, feast or famine. I don't see any sessions for at least a month or so. 10 to 12 hour days, then driving to Chicago Thursday to get there Friday for a rehersal dinner, wedding on Saturday, driving back sunday to get back at it Monday( no lake surfing for me.) I won't be posting for a while, but will lurk here and there, living vicariously through you buoys. Get on it when you can, keep the pics rolling, peace.