who here has been surfing this week?

10 foot?

 

Man I don't know. 10 foot back probably. That was the biggest set I saw that day. It was two waves like that. Three times overhead easily if someone he was standing in front of it and he's almost 6 feet tall.

This wave was the biggest wave I saw ridden.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CTw3WGMrx09/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

 

Damn, that's a legit stand-up barrel. Had to have been 3x overhead at the peak.

 

thank ya kind sir

 

semi chop waist hi rides yesterday at the washout. Took the 7'2 hog molly fish for a spin and it pulled thru. Was just a few of us at N Washout around 6pm yesterday, running there after work. It started to fill up when they noticed we were having a good time. Still a good sess of just going left n right with a few carves on a couple rides to make the most of it. This morning, didn't set the alarm on purpose, took the LB down the street to see waist + good lines. It wasn't too packed and better than what i'd thought it would be. I had to catch my breath a few times,stick my tongue out, felt like my body was playing catch up. Found my space to get plenty of rides with a lil manuevering here n there. Now, I give my 2 weeks to work. Got a job offer earlier this week with a substantial raise, staying in Charleston. This coupled with the fact i'm closing on a house next week, should be a different time sorta speak for me. New chapter and all that jazz, can't wait to take this workload off my shoulders. Have a good wknd bouyz

 

Congrats on the new job and the house dude!! Both are huge accomplishments and I hope you get to do some celebrating this weekend.

Today is my last day at my current job (after a 3 week notice-period *gag*). Onward and most importantly, upward!

 

Fun waves this morning. Get out there.

 

About chest to shoulder up here, looks fun at the right spots but I have my kid....she's not into hanging out on the rocky coast today. I've pushed her into 100's of waves since the age of 3, boogies and boards (she is 12 now,mostly belly rides, a few pop ups), invested in "surf" camp (overpaid babysitting), and nothing. It has not taken hold, except I catch her staring at some of the younger surfer boys. God help me.

 

Actually got out for two waves, my kid beach combed the spot to keep busy (she found some nice sea glass). Swell dropped dramatically, light crowd but a long lull between sets so it took a while just to get two, she was glad to see me get out so we could swim at the beach.I'm about to make steak tips with local corn and mashed taters, and a big side of tomato salad. Life is good.

 

Was fun here all day. It went on-shore around 3 but was still fun to surf chest high waves in trunks.

 

My oldest getting wet prior to work .

 

On my last wave of the Larry swell (9/11, Saturday) I was in the water for 3 hours, but had one really good ride -- a left hand corner of an OH set wave. next wave I got absolutely pummeled by a chest high closeout. Wasn't that bad of a thrashing at all but somehow the mid rail of the board hit me square in the face, right on my nose, which is probably broken or at least dislocated. Not the first or second time its happened.

No big deal, or so I thought.

Woke up Sunday with a neck ache so sore it was giving me a migraine, which actually only just receded a few days ago.

So, last Saturday I ate fried chicken from the grocery store on the beach with my dog and watched the local crew get some chest-OH clean waves. Then I lied down on the couch with an ice pack and CBD cream for an hour and then got up and went to go see Pearl Jam in Asbury Park.

 

IR Loop - Atlantic Wide (tropicaltidbits.com)

 

lil Peter delivering lil clean swell yesterday. Was in the office yesterday, so missed the early afternoon hi tide push. Went after work with the LB and rode thi hi, at best waist hi, rides down by the pier. Lotta surfers out there, can understand tho the rain has been pummeling down last 4 days or so. One buddy recognized me and walking out on the beach and said they're great right now. my response " you sure bout that?". He likes cold weather tho, and for some reason doesn't mind small waves. I on the other hand just needed my fix, work makes me lose my mind sometimes. Didn't really get to ride a wave out, so not the greatest of times. Was in a time crunch to get dwntn to meet up w a bud for the Panthers game. At the house now, hungover and slight red faced, waiting an hour or so to get on this push that i missed yesterday. Perhaps a hangover cleansing..

 

That's a great pic curl

 

Town goes quiet after Labor Day , Allenhurst

 

*cricket.... cricket.....*