who here has been surfing this week?

small scale swell here in Jerz today. tide killed it though

 

Been surfing so much over the past week I was happy to take a couple days off. Hit three different islands Sun, Mon Tues. Sunday was the best. Alex sending the goods. Chest to head high and maybe bigger at the secret spot. Been riding a 5'5 CI Biscuit inspired fish that I bought a decade ago. I'm still in love with this board.

 

Few fun days if you were on the right board at the right time. Been surfing more and shooting less. This was from my son's free surf before his heat at Boardriders yesterday. About 10 minutes after I took this shot the wind started blowing and the waves went to hell. Wish I had video of this turn. Stills didn't do it justice.

 

No way... where is that?

 

Ahurst looking south into AP.

 

good pulse out this morning. Stomach to chest, occ head hi. Left and rights, with peaks. Had the courtesy Midas car, put the longest board - funshape twin, cuz low tide was couple hrs before. No matter, it was fun swell to snap some turns. Had some decent rides in the first 30. Arms got tired quick, must've been a while

 

yea, man... seeing a show there tonight and probably another one or two coming up over the next few days.

 

Whole wknd of surfing. Twas nice. TS Colin just kept going, a lot of us down here was expecting Friday morning and that's it. There were at least stomach hi sets all wknd. I was able to beat the traffic every day. Sunday looked the roughest, huge line at 9am on my way leaving the beach. Never rode a shortboard, but also never rained on me on those mornings either after off and on rain about all wknd. July 4th stayed dry as well, i put down my anchor on the beach. For sure there were some close calls crashing into the fellow surfers, but in the end to get rideable swell all wknd made me feel real good bout not jetting out of town. Tried ostrich ground meat yesterday, hype aint real. Def paid way too much for that sht, not sure if i'm all down for the filet version just yet

 

Crazy! The Damned, Descendents, Circle Jerks, Interpol, Built to Spill, Bouncing Souls....on and on. That place gets some great acts!

 

had a hangover lingering yesterday. Stayed home to watch the F1 race and Wimbeldon match, storms were brewing ahead. Thought there might be a chance to ride sumtin on incoming tide, before storms came down and to just get outta the house. Rode the 7'2 wrv, wind was a bit on it, short period waves. Waist to plus sets would come thru, was able to get a good bit of rides and drift up thru the Washout. Had a few nice rides, all were steep drop, couple carves and hit on the lip at the end. All i need is a lil sumtin in the water to make things rideable, felt good to make it happen. No huge swell makers but the early morning hi tides make get me out there tomorrow or Thursday

 

Finally injury free after about 5 years and been hitting the gym hard for the past 8 months, dropped 20+ pounds and went down to a traditional high performance shape again. In Puerto Rico in February my boards felt too big and had been looking for something to try. Picked up a Sharpeye Disco off of Marketplace about a month ago. First shortboard I've purchased rather than making for myself in almost 20 years. Finally had a couple of sessions on it where I could feel it out. Board is spot on. Can't wait to get it into some real waves. May even make a copy of it. Its about 5 liters less in volume and an inch and a half narrower than the boards I'd been riding since I hurt my shoulder about 5 years ago. Will be nice to be off of wide thick boards. I can tell even in the weak surf this past week that this is a huge improvement and that I'll be able to knife deep takeoffs again which has been the biggest problem with thick wide boards.

 

Congrats, brother! Shape looks great.

 

Those Discos are def fun. Eyed a couple but both my good buds have them. Sharpeye doesn't disappoint for the most part

 

Pretty fun wave Saturday evening at a promising sandbar in the middle of town before dark with the push of the incoming tide with nobody around except a chatty guy from the Czech Republic who swam out ask a million questions about surfing while I waited for waves. Water was like a bathtub. Waves were only thigh to waist high but they had plenty of push to get some speed going.