who here has been surfing this week?

Where are you located? Its likely all about swell angle. Select spots on the Outer Banks are firing this morning. Here is a screen shot from the surf cam rewind of a set hitting the spot where I was around 7:30 this morning. These sets were about every 10 minutes apart. My best ride took me from near that jetty and I had to kick out to avoid the pipe in the foreground.

By the way, Surfline is calling Wilderness in Puerto Rico 10 to 15 feet this morning. Will be interesting to see if any pictures emerge from the Caribbean today and tomorrow.



Here is a snip from Windy.com of what was going on early this morning and notice the location of the storm and the direction the swells would be radiating out from. The storm really hasn't moved a whole lot since Saturday so the pulses keep coming. Without looking at a cam I'm guessing the energy is missing places like DelMarVa. Same for southern North Carolina.

 

Here is a pretty good sample of what Puerto Rico was like yesterday:

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=1473894143127835

 

Sup, dudes?

OBX was getting the goods yesterday. Check Brett Barley's insta. You're right about SENC, we're in the shadow for sure. Lingering swell yesterday, ankle slappers today.

Been surfing a ton lately. Sold my boat and picked up something more shallow-water friendly. New water pump for the for the outboard supposed to get here today.

Been surfing a custom fish that's too small for me. I never order custom boards for this exact reason... but I have taken it as a challenge to see if I can get in good enough shape to ride it. It's progressive, but leaning toward over shaped, as in, way too f***ing thin. My wife thinks I'm torturing myself.

 

I generally travel 100 miles max on tropicals , and it is shocking how a few degrees in swell angle can make that much of a change .

 

Below is an image of my general surf zone. If you stand at 10th street in Avalon NJ on a really clear day and look at Atlantic City to the North you realize its a giant cove that is 25 miles across. When you see it in person the cove is far deeper and more pronounced than it appears on this map. You'd be surprised how much variety different swell directions and wind directions can make in various locations on a given day between Atlantic City, Ocean City, Sea Isle City and Avalon. One place can be firing while another is garbage and half the size.

 

One is a blade , 2 5/8 thickness , 9ft , and a 9 ft 2 inch , 2 3/4 , Happy Traveler is 7 ft 8 inch 2. 5/8. Looks like you get the swell this week . We have a chit wind forecast but somewhere in the NE will be good .

 

Winds turned favorable and the cold front should pulse a s swell Friday. Wind chill should be interesting with highs forecast in the 60 s , nw gusts to 25 .

 

starting to come in nicely in the SE...hope everyone gets some.

 

Went out yesterday evening to Folly w a bud, stopped by 3rd E then 10th E then settled on 13th E. Crowded, found some room but constant drift south then no more room, dealing w rocks/jetties. Started off nice on the 6'6 Barrel board then kept paddling away from the rocks, should've just let me carry me down but there was a big blob of ppl on the otherside. Ended on a cheap one, tho it was bout pitch dark by then. Had bout a handful stomach to chest hi's, but plenty of closeouts and a few rides down the line that were meh.
This morning, orange sun rising w a bit of haze n mystique. I went to my hurricane spot knowing everything was going to be hitting, down West of Folly. Surprised to see a few ppl there coming in when i was. Brought the 6'4 alchemist, but my dummy self didn't realize it was a freshie - no wax- when i pulled it out at the beach. Had the Barrel board under, so all was well. Chest to head hi, cleaner than yesterday or any other evening session i'd say. Still tho, over half of them closeouts even with the bigger size. Ended up drifting south a few blocks, taking it out on 10th which is bout as far as ya wanna go south without seeing fins. But as i drifted from the small pack of 5-10 surfers, taking a few lefts n rights, a haze kept coming over the beach. Sun started to brighten up, but i really felt like on my own even tho it was good to see a walker here or there on the beach. It seemed real intense from the beach, but it was a long walk into ocean before paddling in (sorta hi tide session). Then you wanted to paddle further, but really the waves weren't breaking too hard and almost breaking close to where you could stand. Finished off the short sess, on a head hi right that i held on too tight and rode out. No long rides, but a good bit to keep me happy.
Wind should pick up this evening thru tomorrow. Checking out an remastered screening of Morning of the Earth this evening - might be in a state of disarray... Tomorrow evening tho i'm planning on a bit of clean up w a shorty in mind and crossing fingers for a Saturday morning happy ending from Fiona. Hope ya'll get yours

 

Offshore was rather unridable in these pic s , calmed down to 30 in the aft for a few long lefts . C J s hood .

 

Fiona delivered up here. I got out at dawn before it really started to build. By noon we were getting really big outside sets. By the end of the day, when the swell was at its peak height and the winds shifted more from the west and calmed down, it was the biggest, cleanest ridable wave i had ever seen at this spot and maybe as big as Hurricane Bill overall. Everyone was under gunned and going for the smaller peaks or catching the shoulder, which would be way overhead, at least a 100 yards from the peak. It easily could and should have been a tow day for the big outside sets. It was truly an epic sight, especially at sunset.

 

Fiona was kind of a dud for me. Honestly Thursday 3:30 until dark was when I got it the best. That evening I went to one of my local spots I use to escape crowds. When I got there there was one other guy out and another showed up a little later. Those two guys quit an hour before dark and I had a heck of a solo session that last hour as the swell started filling in. I was looking a few hundred yards north at a mob scene at a popular spot and laughing to myself.
Friday drove up to another town where it was solid but the conditions were kind of weird. The outside sets you'd get blown off the wave because the wind was blowing so hard. The insiders were mostly closeouts. I spent four hours in the water and worked my ass off for four good rides and a couple nothing special rides.

 

Our main point that you know CJ was a swell magnet. The town beaches were getting shoulder sets at best, maybe bigger at Scarborough. I have no idea what spots south of me were doing, but if the southside of the point is working, usually spots south are working too. Yesterday was small when I finally checked in the afternoon, but the crowd was worse.

 

Manik , had the urge to drag the wife up , and I drove the wrong way South. I do have some last yrs rubber for you too