crazyest places u surfed

Now they just pump waste into the line up. Luckly I walked down the road a bit and surfed Sand Pits. My buddies did surf Bridges and didn't get ill, but I did hear many others have gotten sick after surfing there... Feb 2009

 

It's not that they have balls, they just were ignorant. I walked/swam through the river mouth from Playa Grande to Tamarindo a few times and that was really sketchy.

 

Tamarindo (not the town in costa), but a break south of San Juan del sur in Nicaragua. Accessible by boat. Head high, 3 people surfing it.

Ollies Point. it was small, but waist to chest sets. We were the only boat there. So small that it was breaking very close to the rocks. I'm regular, so I couldn't see how close, but goofy would've been a little intense.

Hawaii- waikiki wasn't crazy, but just such a sight to see. sooo many people in the water learning to surf, beautiful women, catamarans taking waves, SUP's, it was just amazing.

 

I take "crazyest" to mean just that, as opposed to epic or super big. so I submit the following:

Lake Erie, near Cleveland, Ohio on a early fall day, conditions were about 2-4 ft windswell semi clean, basically few if anyone would've bothered in Jersey, and there were - no **** - over 30 guys out, 3-5 second rides maybe - and they're whooping and screaming like its DOH.

Haulover Beach Miami mid-summer tropical system, its waist-head and a bit choppy, way way crowded, like well over 75 heads out, but the "crazyest" thing about this session was the 2 butt ass naked Brazilian chicks who paddled out and yes basically took every and any wave they wanted

 

The craziest waves I've ever seen are most definitely in my dreams. Swimming pools, odd rivers in the woods, and other random inland waves. The wierdest thing is I always find these abstract surfable inland waves, but never get to surf them. Any Freudians out there can go to town psycho analyzing that!!

 

I remember those days. You might also add that the bottom is literally full of all sorts of crap that makes a razor sharp coral or lava reef pale by comparison. I don't miss the old slaughterhouse.

One could also Gas Chambers to the list in pre-leash days - your board was guaranteed to end of with some number of dings everytime you paddle out.

 

Ah... the rivermouth (actually, the edge of the reef at the rivermouth).

 

lol, I was noseriding on a wave right down a paved street the other night. I woke up afterwards and had a big smile.

 

I have ridden two Costa Rica rivermouths, Barranca and one up in the Guanacaste. Was definitely thinking about both the grey suit and the Crocs. First time out we had to paddle across the river to get to the break and I was shi--ing bricks. I let one buddy get in the water and start across and jumped in behind him with three more friends behind me. It was uneventful and turned into one of my best days ever. Head plus lefts just walling up and peeling fast the way I dream about.

A friend of mine actually saw a croc in the rivermouth of Barranca the day before I got there in February. I stayed out of the river and waded through the minefield of barnacle covered rocks this time out! I've never hit this place when it's really going off but have definitely gotten rides way longer than a minute. You finally get out of the wave and the lineup is so ridiculously far away. Very cool. Not much to do in this area and it's hotter than balls, but Diego and Katia will hook you up at Hotel Boca Barranca with homecooked meals and an ok place to crash walking distance to the break (watch your flops). Food and beer + 3 nights $200 for two people.

 

I think about that stuff all the time, actually saw a river kinda making a wave and was wondering if you could actually build it up by packing down dirt in a spot. That would be fun to do if the waters clean.
As far as swimming pools, this is kinda crazy but like u know how when a drop of water hits water and it makes perfect waves? Well couldnt wave pools drop water like that from far above and save money, or harness power/current from a river and from a wave from that to save money? Just ideas, but prob wouldnt ever work, i just thing kinda weird sometimes

 

Reading these posts brings back memories of good waves and sketchy set ups as I have surfed just about all the spots in Costa mentioned. Sketchiest out side of the previously mentioned that comes to mind was Mizata El Salvador. First is the walk to the beach through a dirt poor area in the middle of nowhere countryside where people have nothing and you get the distinct feeling they want to jack you for whatever you have. Paddling across a river mouth is step two. Always sketches me out (I was told there were no prehistoric reptiles in El Salvador cause they had all been eaten but I think they were just trying to make me feel better about the situation). Step three was negotiating the line up. The take off of the right point is directly in front of a super shallow stretch on barnacle covered rocks going all the way out of the water to the beach... eat it and there is no getting out ...just take it like a man and paddle around. The wave at the point bends towards said rocks so they are always a danger. If you connect a good one then you have to deal with this huge bolder/ mini mountain that sits in the inside of the line up ...which by the way the current coming around the point pulls you towards and is right next to the only paddle out spot. If you are unfortunate enough to find yourself beyond this mini mountain, you only have a small stretch to paddle like hell to get to the beach and start over or hundred feet sheer cliffs and open ocean await you. Not sure which would be worse. Its not necessarily a do or die wave when its DOH with a cranking current it has a high sketch factor.

 

i bodyboarded at cinnamon bay over easter, i cut my knee on a reef head, and then bodyboarded the shorebreak wedge that was really fun and actually barreled.

 

Living in New Zealand for the past couple months as I finish up my undergrad degree, I have been blessed with a couple good sessions at this break called "The Gap." It is in a small beach community called Castlepoint on the southern east coast of New Zealand's north island. It is literally a gap in between 2 huge rock out 100-200 feet high, where swell gets funneled through onto a sand bar. The Gap is about 200 meter across and fishing boats use it to come through to find shelter from the eastern front. Picture is worth a thousand words. Seals, 3-6ft waves, fishing boats, and awesome sunrises.

 

i wanna see a pic it sounds sick.... And how cold does the water get on the North island, and how warm, i would love to go to new zealand

 

Yeah those Staghorn corals are nasty. I was riding right over the top of them in crystal clear water and actually saw them fully exposed when the wave sucked out with me on it! Here is a picture from that trip.

 

Fort Point in San Fran. Talk about crazy current!!

 

not really "crazy" but I did surf a spot called sailor's grave in coromandel in New Zealand.
Right up the beach is the actual sailor's grave, surrounded by a white picket fence. "In May 1842, 22 year old William Simpson, a sailor on board the British Navy ship HMS Tortoise, was accidentally killed while loading kauri spars onto the ship in Te Karo Bay. According to the original kauri headboard “he drowned in the surf”, however, another report states he was crushed between a log and the side of the ship." Pic is from the cliff over the bay, grave is out of sight off to the left. Being a history geek I thought it was pretty cool...

 

Port Reunion
Durban
J-Bay

EDIT- Forgot Mauritious