Steep Drops

What size and type of board are you using? Assuming it's beach break, what tide?

 

i was just thinking of posting a thread for this exact reason. i'm always getting slammed on the steeper waves and i don't know what to do. i'm riding a 6'10"

 

Steep waves are tricky...but...are the best in my opinion. First off, you "should" have the right board for it. You don't have to but it will help out a lot. I like to use my roundtail on hollow steep days. Basically...you drop in on more of an extreme angle. I usually will bring my knees up to my chest as soon as I drop....this way I am on the face of the wave. When the waves are hollow/steep usually the the wave is fast.....so popping up a little faster can help too.


It takes practice man......steep waves were a problem with me when I started too.

 

First, you need to have the right board as others have mentioned. There needs to be some rocker on the board in order to avoid pearling. The less rocker, the more you will need to adjust your stance/balance towards the back of the board.

Second, you need to commit entirely to the wave and paddle with more force than what is usually required for a crumbling wave. Start paddling into the wave earlier as well - the steeper the wave, the more difficult it becomes to catch it late. You should also keep your head down and weight forward, so that you put all of your energy into catching the wave. Confidence is key.

Third, head straight down the face of the wave and then bottom turn. It is nearly impossible (unless you are pro) to catch a steep wave at an angle. The rail of the board will most likely cut into the face of the wave and you will be slammed by the breaking wave. Paddle straight down the face of the wave.


Finally, practice practice practice! Don't be afraid to wipe out.

 

riding a big funshape type board will be no help... but i also like to take off at more of an angle, and one huge factor is commitment.. if cant commit to the waves you'll most likely be sucked over the falls, hurt, or just watch a good wave go by...
but i've noticed the steep drops on low tide too. some of them are ridiculous, but a lot are make-able, but ive adjusted

 

push ups/pop ups are huge for steep waves!

 

Damn dude...I must be a pro then. I find that if you drop straight and then initiate a bottom turn u lose speed. Like I said before....steep, hollow waves ARE fast waves. If you can't pop up fast you are not gonna make it anyway. The best way in my eyes to catch a steep wave is to angle in on it. I didn't say it was cake....It's a learning experience...

 

I think timing plays a big part in catching steep waves. Trying to catch it early helps a lot, so if you see a big set coming, start paddling and generating speed, and catch the wave early so you are up before the wave becomes "steep" and starts to break. I think this is a good way to practice your drops, gain some confidence, and after some time you can take off the steep wave with less problems.

One sick thing I saw this weekend was a video of Kelly Slater surfing Shipstern's bluff early this year. This is a fast wave that jacks up like no other, and I noticed that he tries to catch the wave at an angle and almost immediately after he pops up he does a pump across the top of the wave face to avoid free falling. Makes it look so easy. Go search for the vid to see what I'm talking about.

 

I do something similar. When snap to my feet I immediately do a little half turn at the top of the wave to get me racing the lip. I might do a bottom turn but never at the drop in. As stated above, its such a speed killer.

 

Yea...maybe pro was a strong term to use, since I'm not pro and can catch them on an angle for the most part...but there are definitely days when you have to drop in straight down, its just too heavy to go in at an angle. Am I alone on this?

 

well yea, when its just a fun day, all do a nice hefty bottom turn, but when the waves get heavier and barreling, i have to start out at an angle to get myself in the pocket with speed.
But if your "pro", you can do the gnarly bottom turn into the barrel and pump inside it, then get spit out and do a 10 ft air out the wave.... but im sure none of us are doing that

 

no dude i definitely agree with you. some days when the waves are getting steep fast and pitching hard if you try to take off at an angle you cant get the speed and will most likely get sucked over the falls.

im still getting used to riding steeper waves and can make the drop but a lot of them have been closeouts where i surf lately so i get a bottom turn in and maybe a top turn if im lucky before the thing closes out. i think maybe i need to try getting into the waves earlier and not make such late drops.

i agree with you guys though commitment and a fast pop up are key, if theres any hesitation at all you wont make it

 

1. commit commit commit. you have to be 100% sure you're oging to drop in right when you start paddling. when you are paddling, it has to be harder than usual also. any extra inches before the wave really falls out will help a lot. on the drop itself, you can't hesitate for a second or you're either going to bail or pretty much go over the falls

2. when you pop up, it has to much quicker than usual. on a mushy wave, you can have the luxury of maybe looking down the line for a second or just preparing yourself. on steep drops, the second youre done w/ the last paddle you have to be instantaneously popping up.

focus your weight completely forward and as you're dropping try to work the bottom turn into the drop. otherwise, unless you really can generate a lot of speed off a bottom turn you're probably going to miss the wave.

nailing a steep drop and turn is a sick rush, especially when you come out w/ a lot of speed

 

Dude....a lot of us are doing that.

I just got back from Hawaii and basically you had to late drop on everything. Which leads to a instant shack that you MUST pump inside to get the hell out of. Waves in Hawaii are so powerful that a couple swipes and i am up on the wave. No super paddling, no kicking. Just 1,2, and up.

Comparing Hawaii to NJ is pointless. But, once in a while here in NJ we do get a super fast, steep, hollow wave.

My point though is you don't need to be pro to be able to drop in on these beasts.

It just take practice....and commitment.

 

On fast, steep, hollow waves...there is no reason to paddle hard or even kick for that matter. Just a simple 1,2 and up will do it. Late drops are where it's at. Until you can do a late drop...you are missing a very valuable part of surfing. Mush burgers can require the paddle from hell and kicking like you got a great white behind you.

But you absolutly don't need to paddle like a psyco for fast hollow waves...maybe thats what you are doing wrong?

 

i dono, i find any extra bit of time you have to take the drop it will be a little less vertical

 

everyone is a little different.....but for me.....getting vertical = tits

 

wide tail boards are bad on steep suckouts