Predictions on Crowds in the Water

I know the pumpmaster won't like this but I'm gonna throw it out here anyway:

Living Aloha is the coordination of mind and heart within each person. It brings each person to the self. Each person must think and express good feelings to others.

Akahai, kindness to be expressed with tenderness;
Lokahi, unity, to be expressed with harmony;
Oluolu, agreeable, to be expressed with pleasantness;
Haahaa, humility, to be expressed with modesty;
Ahonui, patience, to be expressed with perseverance.

“Aloha” is more than a word of greeting or farewell or a salutation. “Aloha” means mutual regard and affection and extends warmth in caring with no obligation in return.

“Aloha” is the essence of relationships in which each person is important to every other person for collective existence.

See it in action here (Waimea DP):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4TCgpRoy5s

 

If anything surfers are arrogant and I can understand why since it takes a while to get good at the sport, but on the douchebag note, I come across them a lot I find them hilarious, they paddle into the line up talking about getting shacked and boosting so high and getting gnarly with it and all this typical stereotypical ****, then when you seem them take off on a wave they just look like a complete idiot, wait till winter thins them out, a lot of them only thinks surfing is a sumer thing...

 

Almost everyone who surfs in the northern Atlantic knows that there are "winter surfers". They've been in a surf shop before and seen the hooded wetsuits. How could you possibly not know that people surf in the winter? It's that a lot of people choose not to surf in the winter because it's extremely uncomfortable. Period.

 

Great post!

 

i love surfing in the winter. theres nothing like surfing a nice 45 degree wave with a thick old lip and nice offshore with big heavy waves and in a nice tight wetsuit (the ladies love the skin tight stuff) and no kooks or tourists in the water to have to dodge.

 

Go for it! I'm not hating.

 

Mikeb2056 what you are failing to relize is that Surfer act like that most cause they have felt or seen the results of people droping in. Its not like Malibu in 1964 where is a cool for more than one guy can be on a wave.

People that do not surf in the winter and not true surfers. If you love surfing as much as you say and it takes a big part of your life you will deal with the cold waters to get your fix

 

I didn't say don't pay attention to basic etiquette and drop in on people. I was basically talking about localism and one poster was talking about how you shouldn't paddle out to a point in San Diego unless you want a beating...lol And all this earning respect stuff and how people on certain boards have more rights than others and "the pecking order" ect.

And as far as being a "real" surfer. If your that addicted to it and it's in your blood, you wouldn't live on the east coast where it's ass cold 6 months of year and swells are not consistent and the mid Atlantic has absolutely horrid geography with basically all sand breaks with a total lack of variety of waves and on top of it....It's crowded! All I see east coaster's do is complain and then talk about how hardcore they are. If your that dedicated, you'd move to where there's consistent swell. Come on now Matt. There's plenty of places to move. Australia, California, Hawaii ect. Nowhere in the mid Atlantic can hold anything over 10 feet because of all steep sand beach breaks You call this hardcore? That's a joke. Any BIG rideable waves you see on the east coast are in new england where sand gives way to rocks and it's still inconsistent up there compared to the pacific or europe. Were are on the wrong side of the ocean. Storms travel west to east throwing swell in the oppostite direction. And we have a continental shelf to boot!

 

oh yes because only the "real" surfers live in cali or hawaii etc. because we all have the money and ability to just pick up and leave. and why should/would we? there's something special about being born and raised where you surf. i can't stand the rich boys and their nice beach houses down here in DE who claim they're "local" because "i've basically grown up here from coming here every summer". bottom line, if you have the will to surf and you love it where you're at, that's hardcore enough.

 

It's like comparing east coast skiing to west coast....NO COMPARISON.

 

1 . Pecking is put in order to keep the ones lacking experience or pple who have never surfed a spot out of everyones harms way.

2. It not crowded all year and what would that make me if I moved to Hawaii ??? It would make me one more guy out there trying to get waves adding to there crowd.

3. It very clear that you dont know too much about the Mid Atlantic or any thing about surfing on the eastcoast at all . I can go a spot where it I can get some or the longest rides you can ever imagin to and shallow hollow tube riding beach break and it all it the same town. I dont know how long you have been surfing nor do I care cause it only affects me when safety is the issue. But knowledge of the sea and beaches in your area are what seperates 3 monthers from and year round surfer

 

Oh my god, I'm not saying that. I'm saying matt's comments that real surfers are only "real" if they surf winter. That's a ridiculous statement.

 

Show me some clips of 20 foot waves being ridden in jersey. Maybe I'm wrong. I've simply never seen it and I've never heard of descent rock reef point break in jersey.

 

Haha...excuses excuses. That's funny. Your doing them a favor... Talk about spin. There all at pipeline/well known breaks trying to get photo'd anyway. There's lesser known breaks that are aweomse that aren't a mad house. The whole coast lights up. It's not one spot.

 

Oh and as far as a pecking order....Boogie boarders like me should be at the top! We don't put people in danger with our soft boards and I catch 10 times as many waves as these surfers do who are mostly just sitting on their boards out of position. I w have a fantastic duck dive and I almost never wipe out. I've never run into anyone and I've been out in some swell before my friend. I also have great paddling technique and a fantastic kick with my big fins. I should videotape myself sometime showing you.

 

actually, there is a comparison. the best ski racers in this country tend to be from the east because they learn to ski on ice/rock/boilerplate etc. if you can shred in the east you can shred anywhere. i went to college in vermont and then moved out to telluride. skiers in vt were better because they weren't spoiled with pow. doesn't mean skiing in the east is more fun, but it does groom better (technical) skiers. same thing might be true for surfing...

 

Actually there are plenty of 20 ft days recorded ridden nothing south of AC but they are in NJ . Mostly in the Manasquan area of NJ they they have been ridden.

 

Got a link to the youtube video? I'd like to see it. New knowledge for myself. I never knew it. It's got to be a rock break. Didn't know they had them down that way. You need mushy sections to be able to paddle out in a swell like that unless your suicidial. Sand breaks are usually hollow and heavy straight across GENERALLY. They don't mush up in the same predictable spots like a reef/classic point break(which I love!) Also, gives you cutback sections....everyone is so obsessed with getting barreled they forget everything else. It's alway funny watching them squatting like their taking a **** to get barreled....my god just get a bodyboard.lol

 

You and you sponge are just as hazzard as another surfer droping in on another surfer. If you drop in on another surfer they can get hit with his or her own board, wack there head on something hiding on the ocean floor, ect.

I could careless about your Paddleing , Kicking or whatever. I never said anything about that so no need to try to instagate a arugment .

Actually I have been reading alot of your post and you seem to throw something out there and when it gets thrown back at you its all of a sudden not kool

Someone called you a Kook or a F'n idiot big deal if you are gonna loose sleep over that than maybe you have some self esteem issues you need to work on with a professional counsler.

This is how surfing / Body boarding has been for years . This Pecking order isnt something that went out in a Memo over night.

All I can say is learn to exept it and move on!

 

Actually if you went to Turckerton Seaport for there Singlefine Story talks and Boardwalks Presentation you would have seen pleanty or 20ft days in CNJ