Here is what the lineup in OC will look like in 10 years (just imagine all these people trying to catch these waves) LOL http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inA-36YRV0Y&feature=related I remember not more than 10 years ago when lineups were crowded but no where NEAR the amount of people i've been seeing out there lately! Where are these people coming from???
"Ya REALLLLLY Missed it." You should have been here back in the 60's, you could look up the beach and tell that who was out by the street they were on. If it was 15th, it was the Johnson Brothers, 17th- Bob Church, and 8th- Gary Ferguson. Not to worry, if you can actually surf, you'll still get your share, it's just so much more flotsam and jetsam in the water that you have to navigate through.
my take 1. That is the grossest thing I ever seen, just think how many little kids are peeing and how many chicks are on their period, and how many dudes are drunk and peeing, it's a bacteria/disease wonderland! Yayyyy!!! You couldn't pay to go in there, funny stuff tho haha. 2. OC MD ain't that bad. I'd go so far as to say it's less crowded than anywhere else I've lived, including both Northern California (not Santa Cruz) and South Carolina. If you know what you're doing, you will get all the waves you want. Depending on where you're at, you might need to be a little more aggressive and learn to take off later, spin around faster, etc. but that's all good for your surfing anyway. To a point, surfing in a crowd can actually help you get better, in my opinion. I can surf waves by myself just fine. Set up the perfect takeoff, skip it and try the next if I don't like it or screw up...but being in a crowd puts a little more pressure on you. You wait your turn and paddle into "your" wave as the other guys watch and hope you screw up. You might have to take off in a less-than-ideal position or paddle until you're out of breath to beat the other guys over to an empty peak. That stuff can be frustrating but it HELPS. Look at any of the guys in OC that surf really well, and they're the same ones that can wander through a crowded lineup and seemingly "magically" get a ton of waves. Okay this went way longer than I meant to!!! What I'm saying is...life changes. Ya can't wish your own perfect reality into existence, just roll with the punches and keep surfing. Aloha.
looking at that video.... Honey? How about we go to the swimming pool this afternoon? Just the two of us?
this is billabong / quicksilver / lost / volcom's dream. Its also the dream of your local office of tourism. Iv seen some popular spots in vb look like this (to an extent) check first street at 4pm on a good summer swell.. Iv also driven right past them to north sandbridge and surfed alone. Kooks really dig the strength in numbers thing. If you ever really want to surf alone, head down to hatteras. Get past rodanthe, i dont know 5 or ten miles, and just pull over on the side of rt 12. Walk it over the dunes and there you have it. empty, no, NO lineup. You all surf in crowds because you dont put in the effort to not surf in crowds. enjoy the wavepool..... -The stud
Take away webcams and cell phones and the crowd would be cut in half! Back in the 80's some people wondered why the pay phone on the boards @ 8th st was always broken. I swear it wasn't me!
word I'm not sure if it's true, but legend has it that's how "Hawaiian" wave heights came to be. Cut a 6ft day down to "3ft" and all of a sudden the drive doesn't seem quite so worth it.