didn't see that coming. if it comes through (or even if it doesn't) and you paddle out - give thanks. for your life, for the life of AI, and for the life of anyone close to you, past and present.
amen to the AI stuff!!! but come on man, if u watch the weather at all you shoulda known we were in for a swell
beyond stoked. I havnt seen my spot 6ft in a WHILE. Commitments... canceled. AI is/was a surfing legend. Im watching inside/outside right now. Some good footage of him killing it in tahiti.
hopefully ac can stay controlled and the cold air scare a few people away so its not chaos, and yea i grew up watching AI his style is different but i like it
i was watching still filthy and AI was ripping even after me seeing so many times. but last night when i saw he died i was amazingly watching a fly in the champagne.
Just got back from a surf alittle while ago . so fun but to much hype once the TV news says anything about surf you know it will be smaller than what we would like. So many people in the water, guys on rhino chasers sitting around doing the bouy thing. I think it goes like this : Honey, honey news says we got surf have you seen my surfboard? i know it is here some where. Yes dear under the christmas tree and all the thanksgiving decorations. they all come down to say they surfed the big swell. But as you know they just sit get worked and get in the way. Oh well i had fun to each his own.....
forecast has been just updated using our tropical system approach. It is just a little less wave height then was previously showing. should be a fun few days ahead of us...
i agree wholeheartedly. only solace i can take is that the water is too cold for anyone who truly doesn't want to be out there
