Fun swell in VB today

I was wearing a 5/4/3 and the whole works. Coulda stayed out there for hours.

 

4/3 boots, gloves, hood. Boots were the limiting factor for me, my feet went numb after about 2 hours. Guess ill step up to some 7mils

 

I surfed around 1st St, and it actually wasn't that bad, probably a 6-7 rating for me with a 4/3, poly vest w/ hood, 3mm gloves and 5mm boots. I too haven't really had a meaningful session since November and it showed, I felt like a fata$$ out there, couple that with the fact that I was trying to break in a new suit so there was some stiffness.

It was a fun sesh, thigh high but it turned out to be a beautiful day.

 

Nice pics. Makes me wonder why there are no humans photoed in the water. ??? I figured it would be pretty crowded. Empty barrels. Empty lineup.

 

haha no crowds this time of year! The current pretty well spread out the few who did brave the cold. I think I drifted about 12 blocks / hour

 

igot some pics coming. ill post them when i get them up

 

i was out there too. i was out from about 245 or 3 to 530. it was fun as ****! i was the sponger on the white board

 

That is awesome! I guess cold water pays off after all!

 

Nice pics!
Did you surf the new board? Just wondering cause the same dude had another one posted for cheap the next day. Looked like the only difference was it had some goofy looking pin stripes on it. The plain no logo one you got looked sweet.

 

yeah man I surfed it and it was gravy! Zero complaints. I definitely got it critical on a few waves and it did what I wanted. Its crazy lite for a glassed poly board, must be XTR resin or something. No logos or signature was unsettling at first, but hey, it works!

Highly recommend picking that other one up if its your dims.

 

Work, 1.5 hrs to get to the ocean and short days = sadness...
...that's awesome you made it out today, I am so envious...I've had some incredibly fun winter days at places by myself...I love winter when there's swell, but my house and work is an hour and a half drive from the ocean...which blows...but I make the best of it and surf every chance I get...got to get in the water, I'm goin' nuckin' futs! I surfed the beginning of December, and then we hit flat line...but damn right, I'm glad somebody got some!

 

so what size would yall say it was tuesday?

 

Same my fingers and my big toe where starting to feel pain within the 1 1/2 hour mark. I would step it up to 7mm, but im already having trouble moving with everything 5mm, and Im from the tropics so cold water kills me. I guess Ill just have to wait till the water get to at leas 55 so I can shed some gear.

 

I had school. so i wasnt out till 3, but stayed till sundown. But yeah it was real fun. heard it was a little better around 1.

 

Some times a logo means nothing, I bought a board this summer (found it in a no name shop) just saw it in a corner, picked it up and it just felt like it was going to be a good board. I haven't used any of my other boards since July. Got lucky I guess.

 

head high + on the sets. chest high on average (as predicted by swellinfo)

 

thats what i was thinking.. i had this guy on my way back out go this sucks geting pounded by waist high waves.. i was thinkin waist high!?! i know it was going off from 1 to 3 at croatan! start at pendleton get ripped to the rocks and take a hike back to pendleton an do it all over again! we walked the beach 3 times in 2 hours but damn it was worth it!

 

Nice Shots. It was a fun afternoon indeed.

 

Sick shots Lee! Jealous I had to sell all my gear. I can't wait to be back in the water