snow day for me...had a certain south end spot completely to myself today. i'm strangely ok w/ the fact that the beginning of my summer vacation has been pushed back to june 20 now given how fun the surf was today.
Yeah I needed the day off . I stoped up got a pair of new mits and decided to go back south. Tried out the new board and its pretty sweet . Took a cpl waves to get use to but after that it was pretty sweet. I got barreled on it 3 times today each time deeper in . Last time on the 4th attemp is was too deep . When I bring the rasta fins back sunday I am gonna leave the Twin with Jamie for repair
best day of January 11? don't even joke asshole it was mushy try last week as in GET A ****ING TIME MACHINE
Several spots in Ocean and Monmouth county were firing...shoulder to head, occaisionally a foot or so over, and it stuck around all day. I almost didn't go. Took the day off, but I spent 3 plus hours shovelling two driveways, then another hour dragging my daughter around in her sled. Since I have an hour plus ride to the beach, I was real tempted to park my a$$ in my leather recliner and veg, but I sucked it up and went....Man am I glad. Surfed a spot that did it's best imitation of a head high point break. Great size and form. Paddled out alone, and the crowd never grew to more than 6 people. Only problem is water seemed dirty. Hopefully i won't be getting the hershey squirts from it They'll be other days. Just remember today the next time you feel like pussing out, and use it for motivation to get out there. Surf around here is inconsistent, grab it when you can.
Both really really fun days, but I think today was touch better than the 19th. Little more size and power. Both days had fantastic conditions where I surfed in North central NJ
Soft Bro, soft. I'd work double shifts In The summer yet the moment I hear there's a wave powerful enough for me to stand up on I was out there... That's like not even knee high. Priorities priorities priorities.....
any major dude will tell you from one dude to another, i feel your rueful pain. i missed weds because my carpool dummy bailed on me... even though it would have taken me an extra hour to get to the surf, bailing out was a mistake. out here weds surf was shoulder to head high and glassy all day and now it's down to waist and it'll be blown out by 10 am. needless to say, i have found a backup dummy and next wednesday the surf is forecast to be up and firing. find a plan for next time.
yeah in the tail there is a ding and little one on the top of the rail. But thats the name of the game when you dont own a leash
you definitely missed out bro, i ditched work early and got out there early afternoon. surfed up in monmouth for 2 hours or so and had a blast. i was definitely rusty since i havent been out since november, but got a few good ones
very true. not normally a fan of the goon cord myself, but i do wear one in the winter b/c i just hate swimming after my board in cold water. but that's only on shortboards. logs & leashes never mix.
Yeah true . I am not worried about it . Jamie will fix it . I wont be able to find the dings when he is done
