i couldnt get on it friday cause of work but i was stoked to get out on saturday morning to some nice clean peelers. surfed for 2 hours on my round nose fish type board until i got slammed into the sand trying to pull into a little mini barrel and buckled the nose on it. luckily i had my CI flyer in the car though so i grabbed that, dumped the water out of my boots and went back at it for another hour and a half. wish i couldve got on it today too, but hopefully more swell on the way!
friday was a washout here saturday was the day, but i had daddy duties with da lil mookies sunday swell was surprisingly still here. took the longboard and surfed 3-4 footers at midtide with light offshores. water was glassy and the sun was making me sweat. I took the hood off and went under after a wave. I thought i was going to bleed out my ears. Hood back on. great sunday
Friday was big and got ugly with the wind and current here... rode a 7'0 rounded pin. Buoys hit the magic numbers... 10' at 10 sec. Stoked to get into some size. Saturday DP was chest to shoulder, glassy and hollow and FAST... rode a twin keeled retro fish and needed all the speed... got lots of little tubes. AMAZING sunrise... Today was a fun log session in small, clean, weak surf and offshore winds... sets were belly high. Felt like a typical summer swell, except for the temps. Something special about a few straight days of surf. Picking the right board... the right spot... just going with whatever the day brings. Nothing more satisfying than that... the great feeling of being surfed out... Peace...
Friday down in MD was big and perfect with a light 50 mph offshore wind, I didn't go out. Saturday looked good in the morning, thought it was too shallow, came back early afternoon and the wind was on it from the SE, didn't surf. Sunday Morning was glassy and fun, knee to waist high but no one out so I surfd for 2 hours and called it a day. Friday looked so friggin good but that wind freaked me out .
friday before the wind inlet hi tide shortboard quad had head high-overhead sets and no current with no one out,a bit spooky but totally fun once i got my wits about me. yesterday pier southside fast and difficult many closeouts but some good waves same board. today quad fishy home beachbreak was really small mid-tide after church but warm and fun. you guys are wrong,if Matt goes to the right break at the right time it can be bigger,like jerks is magnified head high-overhead when other spots are small crap,and the inlet is awesome when the drift pounding size is closing out everywhere else.it was plenty of size friday at the inlet before the wind.south side of the pier had some decent size sets yesterday,too,but you weren't there,it was only four guys while the others all went to north side which was crap. surfing a lot,now,and more on the way,and early spring-like weather,especially for february,now all the guys with their excuses when it's too cold,windy,size can start showing up.friday waiting for the wind to switch was dumb,as we all knew it would be way too much;the inlet likes ssw.
surfed friday at dusk on my 6'4 thruster. Nice stomach high sets, maybe some plus faces here and there. Winds were offshore at about 30-35 knots. Tide was LOW. Like taking off in maybe two feet of water on the sandbar. The wind mostly just made sets disappear from the horizon, but every few minutes it would hold up a long, fairly hollow right that would run from the bar all the way into the beach. I surfed all alone and within eyesight of the 45 dorks at first street. I will never understand that crowd, that wave sucks.
^ haha Were you at the pier? I saw a soul there, I was at the first street area, but I was the guy furthest north
make it four days. just got back from a fun morning session in vb with thigh high sets rolling through pretty clean in between 30kt wind gusts. nothing huge but fun and warm
more glassy green walls today - wednesday - in vb. another stellar day in what has been an outstanding week . props to swellinfo for another spot-on forecast...
i missed all of the recent waves due to some kind of horrible headcold/flu. Couldnt take it anymore today...sunny, 60 degree air, offshores, knee-waist high perfect form. Just got back from two hours fun small rights feathering down the low tide sandbar.
I got to watch the show from the computer in between studying for tests. Going to college inland may not have been the best decision. But i'm stoked some of y'all caught it good
I actually found it much larger than predicted in sandbridge yesterday. biggest 2.6 ft waves iv ever ridden. Had em all to my self too. I rode my costco soft top funboard and wore my berkley and jensen spring suit. it was so sick. Really though, sandbridge was better than I have seen it in months. Seeing a "2.6ft wave" pitch over your head on your bottom turn is quite trippy...
