oh my god i ate so much sh*t today.... was gung-ho for about 30 mins and then I totally pooped out. lazy popups, incomplete paddling = nose dives galore. if I don't surf at least once a week, I lose alot of stamina. I'm thinking about actually learning to swim like freestyle with the breathing and all so I can train. amazing waves today, some of the biggest ones I've ever been up close and personal with.
on my way to school i could see the spray from 2 blocks away from the beach.... my big wave spot that only breaks when other spots are head plus was at least 2 foot over head and solid of coarse that is all i thought about today and with watchin cams shoulda just been in the water besides in school
first steady swell since my injuries on NYE that I am actually upset that i can't be a part of. still technically 3 more weeks til i can actually jump in. joined a new gym that has a pool and im going to town on arms in prep for my return to the lineups. ugh enjoy this swell boys
So I woke up at 5:30 this morning, threw on my suit and headed to the beach, I nearly **** myself when i walked off the boardwalk. I checked another spot, this place was also maxing, it usually is a bit smaller but not today. I decided to head back to my street where I live to check that and it looked manageable. I paddled out for 1.5 hours, got 3 okay waves. Nothing worthy of a story, oh and the drift was horrible! Got out & went to work. Working in plane view of the ocean when it is goin off BLOWS! My boss saw me starring out the windows at the ocean and my pants getting shorter. after 6 hours of this she let me go, 4:10, out of work on off to the beach. Went out a a semi crowded spot, wasn't catching ****. I ended up drifted to a right and got 2 of the best rights in my life. Dream waves. First wave I was going for, some kid tried going for it but I called him off, as I was deeper and committing. Grabbed the rail with my left hand, stuck the right hand in the face of the wave and dragged down until I hit the bottom, did a lil' wiggle and was getting the best barrel of my life! A$$ in the wave and just enjoying the scenery! I was fading further into the barrel when it started bowling up and just barely squeaked through. Came out and did a top turn in front of some random guy who gave me a YEWwWw After that I walked into the casino and won $115! Such an awesome day, I really needed to share this with some other surfers that know how high im feelin right now. Hope everyone else got what they went looking for today! STOKED!
Good for you bro... I ate Sh@t for about an hr. One of my worst sessions ever!! Probably paddled out at a bad spot but didnt have much time.. Still licking my wounds hopfully I can redeam myself friday... Heard AC was good!
I didn't get out today but I just got stoked by living vicariously through that description! Daylight savings is only days away, who else is looking forward to later nights?
Don't get me started on Daylight Savings bro... I've been counting down for this for the past two months at least... CANT WAIT!
For me, DST serves as a green light that warmer weather is about to start. I know a bunch of ya'll cringe at summer since its almost always flat, and there are crowds, but I log a lot of water time during May-Sept due to the longer days and the convenience of just paddling out with shorts on. I go when it's knee high, and average about 2 sessions/week.
For me it comes too early. Used to start in mid April, now it starts in mid March, which means I have to go back to checking and reporting in the dark. It's nice now, being able to clearly see what's up at 6am. But starting next week, I'll be out there squinting into the blackness.
YES! cant wait school is killing me and im in school in boston so it gets so dark so quick! can only get out on the weekends and some thursdays!
