How much better does not being afraid make you? I want some opinions, I've only been surfing for like 4 months and I still get afraid when the waves are steep. I feel like once i stop being afraid it will make me much better.
whats to be afraid of? It's just water. Don't think fear makes you better or worse, just makes it harder to learn.
Hey, you could get a VERY SERIOUS blister on your toe walking the greens. It could get infected and KILL you. Fear is very real in golf. I once knew a guy who accidently sat on a golf tee that was in his back pocket. You don't wanna know...
Usually, your fears are warranted. Only with lots of time in the water and practice will you feel more comfortable. Cause remember, when its big out, with huge sweeping currents and you are a novice, you should be afraid. There are many factors in the ocean that have killed even the most skilled life long waterman.... So while fear produces many positive things, it is also a natural emotion that is usually warranted. The ocean is a lethal force. Remember that. Ive broken boards on a 2 foot day. The human body can be harmed in even the most playful conditions.... Not trying to be a fear monger, but your body will let you know when enough is enough and you are "in over your head"... Face your fears, but be realistic about them.... Get in the water... A lot.... surf with friends and crowds until you have more confidence.... And if its DOH on a hurricane swell and bombs are detonating on shore, you may just want to take notes from the beach.... Good surfers make it look a lot easier than it really is.... good luck.
You'll eventually get your surfing to a level when everything is fun, usually that's what overcomes the fear
head high gets my heart pounding in my throat. i get that its just water, but sometimes i do get freaked out by some of the bigger sets, like 6 ft+. but those days are the most fun and most memorable. wouldnt trade that feeling of flying down the line on a heavy set after beating back fear as you paddled into it for anything in the world...
Fear is your brain telling you that you may not be prepared to cope with what's about to happen. That being said, spend as much time in the water as possible. Take small steps getting familiar with bigger conditions. After a while head high will start to be more fun than fearful. Never surf way beyond you capabilities - you could hurt yourself or others. There are different levels for everyone - your head and body will let you know when your at your limit.
The right mentality before you enter the water should be a little nervous, but also excited to get out there. It’s a nervous excitement where the excitement is just a little bigger than the nerves. If you get out of your car and the conditions inspire flat out fear and a sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach, you probably shouldn’t paddle out. You won’t make the right decisions in the water and you’ll put yourself and others in danger.
Surf some inside sets.. Get a feel of the waves crashing into your face. Get the feel of getting up on the board and cruizing and position. Go on a smaller day or just surf the inside. My first day out when I was little was on a short board in some pretty big waves 3-6ft maybe. when I was younger. I didnt know how to duck dive, I just ditched the board and went under. Nothing happened to me but i was stoked to get outa there! And ****ting my pants on the paddle in cuz i didnt know how to ride waves!!! Just gotta become nature to it. TIME!!! thats it!!!
the only thing i fear is the paddle out. Dropping in isn't the same kind of fear for me, because once I get to my feet its all under control.
yeah like he said its just water and sand nothin to be scared of. just make sure you watch it for a bit to get a feel for when the sets come and the intensity and direction of the current so you can time your paddle out. and make sure you choose the right place to paddle out too as structures like groynes jetties piers and pipes can help you get out but can also be extremely dangerous. since youre starting out you should watch others surfers as they duck dive and paddle out before you go out so you can get an idea of how oceans behavior is that particular day. if youre scared of steep waves, just become a stronger paddler since the faster you paddle into a wave the better your chance is of making a steep drop. when you wipe out just relax, protect your head and avoid other surfers and grab your board as soon as you can after the wave lets you go. finally, the thing that always pushes me to overcome my fears is paddling out with friends. there was a time on a trip where it was 6-8 foot breaking on a reef that looked 2 feet deep and no one else was out. i never would have paddled out alone but i couldnt be the only one in my group of friends to wimp and we all scored nice waves the worst that happened was one dude stepped on a sea urchin.
I have been surfing for 35 + years and still get scared. Head high plus surf is when I get it the most. When I was younger even though I didn't surf as well I was rarely scared and would paddle out in anything. Water or not falling 8 feet from a pitching lip can hurt if you fall wrong. Sometimes I am the only one on the beach being honest about the fact that I'm freaked about paddling out on certain days. I know some of the guys I'm standing next to are uncomfortable but they never admit it. It makes me feel better to admit it and still go then to talk big. Just take your time, fear comes and goes and is a good thing as long as you don't let it get you into trouble, like not fully commiting on a steep big wave. It's better to eat it on the beach side of the face then to hesitate and get caught in the lip and get yourself pitched.
read zach and zippy. there's plenty to be scared of. the question is, are you skilled enough to cope in the conditions and smart enough to know when you aren't?
Fear is .... a helluva thing... When I was fighting, the absolute worst part was when my trainer was putting the salve & the grease on the cut points on my face in the corner before round 1. D AMN H ELL, I absolutely hated that moment. I just wanted to charge across the ring & get it on, get it going! Until I got hit, my mind was always an insane & chaotic swirl of emotions. Once it was on, though, all the fear & the chaos went away & it was .... better. So much better. Win or lose, didn't matter because I was out there in it. Odd, too, even when I got hit hard, I never really felt it. It's more like an impact. Hard to put into words, I guess. Like the guy from Jersey commented in this thread, I too fear the paddle out on big days. I just hate getting caught & smashed under or backwards, so on the paddle out, yeh, I have fear. Having said that, once I get pummeled then the fear goes away. Until, of course, I'm waiting on a set & a beast sneaker set looms up & everyone's paddling like mad to try not to get blasted. That's not a good moment, either. On bigger days, I always always always surf tight with at least one buddy. The ocean doesn't care about you. Friends do. BTW, remember this: you should always be able to swim to safety from the spot that you're surfing. I.e., if it's 8 feet & you're 1/4 mile out, if you can't literally leave your board & swim in ... ? Then you shouldn't be out there. That little parameter may save your life someday. I agree with what a couple others have commented: just stay with the small stuff for awhile, stay with friends or the crowd (yes, if you need help, other surfers WILL get to you & help you if you holler, even if we all seem cavalier on this board).
i dont know about getting scared at 6 feet. Id say i start to get nervous around 8 feet. And am in over my head 10 feet and up. I think the biggest wave I've ever caught was probably like 6 feet. I cant wait to reallly get bombed
I definetly agree it's the paddle. Once you get past the breaking point, you can take a rest and check out the line up, see how the waves are breaking around you, and basically just get oriented. Once you mastered your take off, then move into bigger waves. It seems as though the only kind of big waves here are steep beach break, so you'll definetly want to have your take off under your belt. Even if you fall, it's not like being held under at Jaws. You just get washed around under water for about 5 seconds max. I luckily have never had a wipeout where I have been continually pulled under and beaten. Then again, I don't go out in tripple overhead blizzard conditions.
Fear is your friend, listen to it. You have only been surfing 4 months... it takes time to learn and increase your ability to where you know how to handle yourself in certain conditions. Be patient my friend, it takes time.
