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After about a week of longboard mush, got a SOLID overhead swell. 3 day swell, 3 hr sesh each day. Got some bombs, got some cuttys...but...
I'm back. Had to practically start from scratch. When I finally could pop up again (3 years after knee injury), rode an 8 ft wavestorm for 3...
(this post is a day late due to lack of internet connection) Definitely surfed-out and injuries were nagging, but I decided to try squeezing one...
Was pretty beat from yesterday, so took my time this morning. Sun was out, shoulder to head-high sets & glassy. Paddled out on the swampy high...
Sun was out when I woke up & waves were waist-high, again. Just as I stepped in the water, this little bitch wave slammed into my ribs and felt...
Damn, you guys are getting some big, clean barrels. It never gets that shapely in my area (but we have ridable surf every day of the year & you...
My knee story is somewhere on this website, so I wont repeat it. I have a hard shortboard, but haven't been able to ride it due to the lack of...
Bluebird dawn patrol this morning. No wind and swell seemed to have dropped to a more manageable level...I was pretty stoked. Turns out it was...
Couldn't see anything through the fog at dawn. Sun finally burned just enough off to see a sloshy windswell on an incoming tide...kinda like...
Went to a new spot today: heavy beachbreak that gets the full, undiluted force of pacific north swells...kinda like hawaii, but freezing water....
Even with the tide surge, waves today were barely shortboardable (unless you're small & light...I'm neither). Relatively mushy/flat faces, a "red...
Hope it gets better, beachbreak. Few weeks ago, I stepped on a hidden curb, sideways, in a dark parking lot and my entire leg just caved...ankle,...
Schools back in on the west coast...WHOO-HOO...so exponentially less crowds & less kooks. 6 am this morning started out overcast, with an...
Finally caught up to me. Layed down last night and ribs, shoulders...pretty much every joint hurt. Paddled out this morning, anyway, thinking...
Today was even better than yesterday. Sun only peaked through fog for about 30 min, but the waves were chest high and clean...hardly anyone out!...
