Epic New Jersey

i had to leave new jersey to keep the Swellinfo servers online, but yeah, reports yeah reports are that jersey is firing.

 

dang it. i miss New Jersey drainers. Wrightsville beach was a disappointment. last night was chest high HARD offshore with crazy rain squals. No barrels to be had, bummming.

 

Caught it Firing on the island during the 40 mph offshores....oh thank you Irene!

 

This evening was so fun 6-10ft in NWW I was the best way to end this weekend !

 

dude i got barrels you werent in the right place at the right time on the island.

 

Doesn't get much better than it was today. Should be some left for tomorrow. Pretty epic

 

M'tion... WAS epic today. Around 2pm it was all time. I'll go ahead and say it.. DOH+ sets. I got out a couple hrs. later and it wasn't AS good, but still some bombing sets coming it... the hard offshore wind was on it by then. But around 7 the wind died, and it got super fun with sets still in the head high range.

Best thing about this afternoon was the fact that there was gold at the end of the rainbow. Everything has an up side....

 

i surfed 5 till dark. it was fun, but i was expecting to be pulling into 6ft closeouts. instead i was doing cutbacks. Then again, I just moved here last week for college. i surfed south end.

 

hmm i surf the southend to. but i was also out there at 2 till maybe 7. how close to the pier were you?

 

I don't think it gets much better is right, especially on a Sunday. Pumping and not closing out all afternoon. I'm content with a summer of flatness for just one day like today. I'm sure the shots will reflect this.

 

surfed north of pier, then realized it sucked, came to south of pier. i was very close to the pier.

 

I was working covering the hurricane damage, but peeled off over to the Pit long enough to shoot this video. It was a pretty insane display of surfing. Pleasure to watch.

http://videos.nj.com/star-ledger/2011/08/video_pro_surfers_take_to_wave.html