8/29- Best Day Ever?

shared a peak with tom curren? woah dude legendary!

 

that wasnt curren it was me

 

if we were talking hurricane swells, i'd put it in my top 3. Last year on the back end of Earl and Danielle me and my friend scored perfect, perfect A-frame overhead+ barrels from about 5 o clock until the sun went down. You would ride a wave for two blocks kick out the back and by the time you had paddled back out another set began rolling through untouched. It was barreling but it wasn't too heavy so you could just rip it apart with turns. I kind of pegged it to be something you see in central california.

Now as-per top swells i've surfed? I've surfed in fall and winter and i've seen better than last sunday/monday although because we hadn't had a swell all summer, the stoke factor was way up for this one.

 

Wow....Tom Curren.....thats a really cool session......he's one of my all time favorites.

 

Ya like ripthegnar said, it would go in to some of the top hurricane swells. For me it would go in the top five with Erin, Floyd, Danielle/Earl. I know theres one I'm missing too that was in 04' or 05' maybe Ike or Wilma? That said as good as it was I don't think it was best day ever. Might not even be the best day this year, IMO. I think that may have been a day around the 3rd or 4th week of April.

Anyways, "best day ever" is pretty subjective. To some that could mean perfect pits with paper-thin lips, and to others it could mean big burly lips on some crap-your-pants size faces.

 

That april swell was all time, best I ever seen my break..the morning that day at break of dawn was like 10 + heavy barrels.
Hurricane bill imo was better than irene, there was a reason andy irons and sam hammer surfed our inlet all day for two days