What's your favorite board to take out? May not be necessarily the one which gets the most use but the board that you just squeal with Giddiness when you're loading it up.
6'6 round tail HPSB... 'cause that means it's pumping. Other than that, my fish... makes even a mediocre day a blast.
So far I like my funboard. WRV shaped by Mike Doyle. Floats well and catches everything so far. I just need to improve my pop up timing and ride it better. Planes smoothly with a lot of forgiveness toward my novice techniques.
best board ever...Hot Stuff Kong model circa 1986 from BB Bombers. LOVED that board. Best in current quiver...6.2x20x2.5 Ashton squashtail. just magic in almost every condition.
My all time favorite board is my (don't laugh) step-up longboard. 9-4x21.5x3 speed nose, pin tail 7.5oz volan glass. Had it custom made by Mark Brog in Redondo Beach four years ago. Works equally well as a single or a true thruster with 4.5" sidebites and trailer. Nirvana in shoulder to double overhead
Hey Pump I have always ridden 6.2x18x2.5. I have toyed with the idea with going wider to a 20". In your opinion what are the benefits of going wider? Thanks
pros=paddles easier and as an older guy, I like that. Definitely has way more float and that is a big help with mushy sections. Cons=doesn't have that 'knifeyness' that an 18 inch width would have.
my first wider board was like that and worked great. this board has a wider tail ala 80s style and it rocks:
slater rode a board with a tail like that in the quik pro and killed it when everyone else was bogging on their second turn. i think my next groveler type board is going to have a tail like that
6'4"x19.25"x2.5" round pin bonzer 5 w/ bamboo fins from brian wynn. that thing is just sooo fun in shoulder-OH surf...lively & fast off the bottom w/ lots of drive & hold thanks to the super canted side flaps & 6.25" center fin. i've had a bunch of bonzers from b. wynn over the years & i think this one is the best yet! i also really enjoy my 6'0"x20.25"x2 5/8" CI dumpster diver. it's been really great in smaller surf...thigh-shoulder high or so. it floats & paddles great, drives across flat spots really well, & will still hold the rail in steep sections. i feel like the dumpster diver at 6'0" is a totally different board than it is at, say, 5'6" or something. it's more in line w/, i think, what became the fred rubble. it's still very much shortboard, but the fuller outline, more relaxed rocker, & thicker rails help it work better in smaller surf. if i could get this EXACT same board as a bonzer, i'd be so ridiculously stoked that i likely wouldn't ride anything else, ever.
I had a 5'10" MTB back in the 80's....bumped squash, thick, double glassed,......was a dream to paddle and took a beating but never showed....best east coast shape I ever had. In HI, in the 90's, I had an old 6'6" T&C, super thick, super wide squash, cant remember if it was a Ben Aipa, but was alot of fun.....also a 6'8" T&C shaped for "Aloha Ray", but he never picked it up at the factory, so they sold it to me with another 7'4" mini gun shaped by Jason Kashawai......made HI alot of fun on every shore at every size
I got a 5'6" x 19 1/4" x 2 1/4" Dumpster Diver type board shaped by Brian Wynn in the middle of the summer and I love it. The thing is just so easy to whip around its a blast. Fun in anything with a little punch to it, but I havent tried it out over chest high yet. It just seems to go where I want it, I've had some really fun sessions on it in the past couple months. I also just bought a 5'5" x 19 1/4" x 2 1/4" Lost RNF but havent really had a chance to try it out in much yet. It seemed to go well in the mushy knee to waist this past Saturday but I need a few more sessions on it to really get a feel for it. Everybody loves board porn so heres some pics of the Wynn
My favorite board ever was a custom shaped board from my friend in La Jolla. Micah Shanahan... He owns "Addict Surf"... He has made about 10 boards for me over the years, but this one he shaped back in 2005 for me when his company was called "Addiction Surf" (until he found out some guy in England already owned the rights to the name and he changed it back...) So he shaped me this Addiction Surf "team rider" board... It was 5'10x18.75x2.24.. small wide and pretty flat as far as rocker goes... He used this sick stencil all over the bottom that said "Addiction" but it was in the shape of a girl on her knees (doggy style =)).... sick art on the top.... Anyway, this was my dream board... it launched SOOOO high and had tons of speed in small surf.... It was my favorite baord ever.... So, one day back in 2005, My ford explorer got stolen while I was surfing the OB pier. It had my dream board in it, and 2 other short boards that were stolen.... So about 6 months after that, I get a text-picture from my shaper.. The board was named "BABY TALK"... not sure why... but he sent me a picture of "BABY TALK" hanging from the ceiling somewhere.... So I called him and he said that the board he shaped for me had ended up in a HUGE art piece that still to this day hangs above the La Jolla Contemporary art museum.... So if you have been to LJ in the past 5 years and walked by the art museum down by horseshoe and the north LJ reefs... MY DREAM BOARD IS HANGING UP OUT IN FRONT of the museum in some crazy sculpture that was made using surfboards, boats and paddle baords. You can see it from the beach and from Seal Cove.. I called the museum and they said there is no way I can get the board back... It is now "ART".... So its sad, I but I get to see it hanging up there, with cables through it... so its still alive.... Not sure how it ended up there, cause they found my truck stripped down by the mexican border... not sure how it got there... I asked my shaper to shape me the exact same board.. a BABY TALK 2.... he did it, and it just isnt the same... the rails came out a bit different and the rocker isnt identical... great baord, but its no BABY TALK.... so sad.... He just couldnt get it dialed in the way it was... It was one of the last Clark Blanks he had though, so maybe that had to do with it... That was long winded, but i get emotional about my BABY TALK board... unmatched performance.... best board ever! She is right in the middle of this art work (This is the real picture of it):