Ok guys, I've been surfing just under 2 years and I wish after some big days someone could come up to me and say wow that wave was a ...... high wave, so I knew where my comfort level is at. Chest Shoulder I'm fine in, occasional Head maybe, but I really want to paddle out and catch bigger waves (and get my first tube lol) but at the same time respect the ocean and more importantly the other surfers out there. So, my question: Are the wipeouts from Shoulder high --to-- Head/1-3 Over really that much worse? Or pretty much the same? Describe if you would not your worst wipeout on these days but an average wipeout on a 1-3 over head high in comparison to a shoulder. Many thanks!
well ability plays a role obviously but when you think about the east coast, you're surfing relatively small waves over sand, chances are you aren't going to drown (not to say the wrong person couldn't get themselves in trouble) i think if you're surfing shoulder high you'd be fine in overhead. i mean contrary to how i'm feeling during the wipeout, i'm not sure if i've ever gotten to the beach and thought "wow i almost didn't make it"
Hey A-Frame you are a puss. Just charge it and let your balls hang out. It always helps when you are charging the wave to scream, "Together forever".
helpful post there, DiceMan. You will probably be fine if you're surfing in shoulder - head high stuff now. For me, the wipeout itself isn't usually the worst part...it's taking the remaining waves in the set on the head that sucks. As long as you're in good shape and a strong swimmer, you shouldn't have a problem handling wipeouts on slightly larger waves than you're currently surfing. Just stay calm and don't fight it. You'll come up eventually
Depends on the swell and the spot your surfing I have gotten absolutly destroyed on some shoulder-head high days draining beach break yet have surfed up to 2x oh waves that were non threatening.
its not about the wipeout, its about keeping yourself out of harms way - either out of another surfers way, or avoid being pounded into a jetty or a pier. You have to be aware when you have no control of where you are in the water and might be putting yourself at risk
too many factors to give you reasonable answer. the most important is what is breaking over and how long the swell period is. I'll tell you head high at 18+ seconds will keep you down for quite a while. ON the other hand, head high at 7 seconds will barely put your head under. Second, beachbreaks and reefs break different thus have different hold downs. Some reefs you can stand up while taking it on the head (SUCKS). Worst wipeout I had by far was a 2 wave hold down at Hermosa, CR in only double overhead surf. Best thing you can do is charge a hurricane swell in the morning while its macking and as it fades gain some comfort. The real only way to charge bigger surf its to wipeout and Paddle back out and do it again.
i too would say that the worst part of a wipeout is getting the waves that are behind that wave on top of you
depends on the type of wave your riding... a 4ft Puerto Escondido heavy beach break wave can hammer you, while a 4ft mushy mellow wave won't do anything. If there is enough water underneath you, then its not as big of a deal. When you surf hollow, shallower waves, then its because more critical... It sounds like your not comfortable in the bigger surf at your break, so maybe wait until you reach that comfort level when it gets bigger.
I couldn't agree more. You should be comfortable (or maybe just shy of comfortable) before paddling out in any size surf. Sure, you need to push yourself or you'll never start surfing in bigger waves, but c'mon guys, there's nothing wrong with being cautious for a while so you don't spook yourself out of getting out there in the bigger/heavier stuff for even longer!
Here's an easy way to look at it. if you have sand on the bottom and your a decent swimmer, you're fine. Like everyone else said, it's the sets you have to take on the head that suck a big one. That and super cold water haha. Now reefs and rock bottoms.... that's where you have to think about dropping late or trying to get deep. Then again, screw it. ya only live once and if you get the chance to surf Shoulder+ in warm water or anywhere for that matter, go for it. It's all about knowing your own limits and you can't know them until you cross the line for them.
I would say get in the best possible shape you can be in. That way, fighting through the incoming sets after a wipeout will be a breeze. I have surfed overhead multiple times and have never had a huge problem coming back up...I guess I naturally realize which way is up and how many times I tumbled underwater. I am not the one to wait to float to the surface either. I see the wave coming and go as low as possible and it rolls right over top of you...if another comes it's the same process. I always have a problem with starting the paddle to get back out. With waves of that size, there's usually a lot of water behind the wave, so you tend to paddle in place for a few seconds which gets very tiring.
Best thing is to just go for it and not hesitate. I seem to wipeout only when I hesitate and think about it. of course your going to still have occasional wipeout and it all depends on factors(bottom, swell period, how deep). Im more scared of dredging 6 footers in three feet of water than 10+ in deep water. relax protect your head/neck and charge
It will happen,...that oh sheet moment,....either under or over,...expect it,....try and keep your board away from yourself and others around....and remember which way is up if you can...lol