Wipeouts (Head High - 1-3 Over)

Cmon man!!!!!!!! If you see the report and it says oh to doh, 10-15 direct offshore, just go to the beach, make sure to bring your board (and balls), if you can stand there with board in hand and just watch, then sell ur board and buy some golf clubs. But my guess is you'll be in the lineup charging, wipeouts are wipeouts, some hurt some don't, don't sweat it just charge! Also 6ft wave is doh for a midget, perspective.

 

yeah how about printing out the answers to this thread, laminating it and stuffing it in your boardshorts, that way you can consult it on your paddle out and be extra ready. Jesus christ. You should be being hazed way more than you are on this thread.

 

I always laugh about the sand bottom being harmless comments. I have been absolutely pounded on sand bottoms and other than the laceration danger of coral or stone I think sand can be just as dangerous if not more because you take more chances. I think the real issue is the swell itself and not as much the size. A hurricane groundswell will tear you up if you get clipped by the lip and go down hard. Add to that a few more on the head and it can get pretty scary, sand bottom or not. There have been days when it was head high + wind swell and there is no danger at all you can just swim right under it. Get in the habit of recognizing what's about to happen and filling your lungs before the fall. Nothing worse that being on an exhale and eating it on a big wave. Being in good shape helps but I am in pretty good shape especially for my age and head high plus groundswell just plain scares me and this is after 30 + years of it.

 

in my opinion, wipeouts from bigger days hurt less but take so much more out of you because your being held under so long. On small days, I actually get hurt more often and more severe. As long as you are in good shape, I think you'd be fine. Just know your limits and surf with other people.

 

This is true, I broke my nose on a knee high day a few years back. Went to do a mini mini floater and the board got kicked up into my face by the backwash off the beach. But then again I got hit in the back of the head on a big winter day about 20 years ago and the board chipped my skull and gave me a slice so I guess it can happen anytime.

 

Give me a break. The guy asked a legit question for someone who's trying to push his limits after surfing for less than two years. I'm sure you're so awesome that you were charging Pipe after two years surfing, but we can't all be as cool as you.

 

zrich-
if you live in brooklyn where do you surf?

 

my guess is rockaway

 

I usually drive out to Long Beach, but it depends on the conditions. Sometimes I'll drive somewhere in Jersey. I grew up in OC, MD and my parents still live there, so I'll paddle out down there when I visit.

 

people used to do bong hits and slam beers before paddling out in OH surf. Even the most skilled guys out there would get completely obliterated by a wave or two and guess what - everyone would laugh their ass off about it later. I guess what I mean to say is that the people who over-think things that are actually simple i.e. the original poster - are usually the only ones that end up getting themselves messed up.

 

I don't feel the wipeouts are a whole lot different, the biggest difference to me is the paddle back out on these two types of days. I mean when you wipeout whether it's 3 ft or 8 ft, the key is to just not to fight it and panic. You know your going to get sloshed around a bit no matter what the wave size is but after the initial ragdolling just pop up to the surface, grab your board, and get out of the impact zone as soon as you can. Yes, the bigger the wave the harder they crash but just relax and stay calm and your golden.

 

Oh forgot one thing...After a crazy wipeout and/or an intense paddle back out on big days, I find myself chuckling a little bit to myself when I get back to the lineup. It's kinda like a "WOW, did that just really happen" laugh. It helps me to keep my cool and remember that I'm having fun and surfing shouldn't be a chore.

 

surfing big winter surf as compared to summer is completely different... A lot easier to relax and you get less tired surfing in warm water without all the rubber... Have to be in shape to a lot of surf beach breaks in the winter.

 

He's giving good advice. I'm by no means a pro but I've lived in Hawaii and Puerto Rico and been other places. I've been hurt worse in waist high mushy beach break. It's not about the size of the wave but your level of awareness and commitment to surf the conditions you find yourself in whatever they are. If you are commited to making a drop on a wave of consequence and you are mentally prepared (of course with the applicable skill level to match the conditions) you will have a better change of making it than surfing chest high mushy closeouts at your local beachbreak and not thinking about your surroundings. Just my .02

Disclaimer: don't get discouraged when you have your ass handed to you even though you have commited yourself. It happens to everyone from time to time.

 

I have to disagree on the "deep breaking waves are less dangerous" idea. You get a consistent swell with 5+ wave sets breaking with frequency in deep water, you can get in real trouble really fast. Thing is in the impact zone the deeper water will aerate substantially. This equates to super soupy "water" that no longer has the density to provide you float or traction. If you're not on your board it is almost impossible to tread water, if you are on your board it is almost impossible to paddle. Add this to not being able to touch the bottom and you have serious issues on your hands.
So, the real question is if you want to risk shallow water blackout or a broken neck

 

yea it's possible on both days. I just see myself much less caring on smaller days because i mess around more. A couple years ago I dislocated my shoulder landing on it in shallow water and this past summer i sprained my mcl because my foot slipped of on a turn.

the only think that has hurt me in bigger days is being held down for a while. no serious injuries though

 

totally agree...I've definitely hurt myself worse on smaller days, luckily nothing serious...this past summer I was goofing off and pulling a cutback and slipped off my board, went head first into about a foot of water...got real lucky!

In OH-DOH, just one real long hold down...that one really freaked me out, that was years ago. and in OBX i went over the falls backwards on a DOH wave...haha that was fun!

 

Used to? Hmmmmmmmmmm.......... maybe thats how they "used to" paddled out in 34 water 38 air temps without a hood! LOL