I'm now at the point where I'm attempting to pull into hollow waves. Most of the time I get hammered over the falls or hit by the lip trying to exit. I know there are people who can punch thru the back of the wave. I sometimes try that but still go up and over. Does anyone have any advice or suggestions for punching thru the back of the wave and how it's correctly done?
hollow wave hal, you need to concentrate on your holstering position in the tubo. grab rail and slibe a little schmel under your back foot
do 2-3 more paddles extra to make sure in the wave. paddle fast. hollow waves its all about paddling your ass off, committing, and not standing up too early, or else youll get thrown over the falls of miss it completely and have that embarrassing quick paddle out to the line up when everyone is shaking their heads at you.
If you're talking about exiting a wave, you're probably doing it at the wrong point of the wave. You need to turn into the top of the base of the wave, if that makes sense. Where it is not breaking, but not just pure energy. Also, its not a jump through until you actually turn into the wave. Once you bury your nose into the wall, then push through and dive through
Thanks. Yes that's what I was talking about. I just wanted to figure out those hollow waves that are closing in on me with no light at the end of the tunnel. I need to figure out how to dive thru the back of the wave at that point before it closes around me. I've attempted to jump through the back of the wave and the energy of the wave still slams me. Are you saying to actually do a quick small buttom turn in inside the hollow wave thru the back, bury the nose into the wave wall, and grab the rails too like a duck dive? A duck dive would make sense to me since I duck dive thru the wall of the wave on the paddle out.
Ah Ha, I was trying to figure out what exactly I did wrong back in May which resulted in 50 stitches and 5 weeks out of the water and I think I didn't do all of the above! LOL! I went over the falls, just couldn't figure out how I F'd up. Now I know for next time. Thanks.
It's the modern version of the Hawaiian Pullout, or "Island Pullout," first done on longboards in Hawaii. Stay crouched like you're in the tube, grab the outside rail (or not) and turn into the wave. Just don't weight your back foot too much or you'll stall and end up over the falls. As you push yourself and your board into the wave face, start to stand up, but stay centered over your board. You can jump off and through the back of the wave, or you can do the "standing island pullout" version and stay on your feet... which is much harder. Slater's really good at it... but he's good at anything.
Thanks! I'll have to try this on smaller days first. I think part of my problem is jumping thru the back of the wave after stalling a bit. Then, I'm in the part of the wave with all the energy and I get slammed.
Excellent advice. Sometimes I nail it and sometimes on bigger waves I've gotten eaten up. timing is really important. Watch Shaun Tompson in Endless Summer 2 surfing at Jefferys. Amazing punchthroughs.
hey man all the comments in here are great. just bury your rail into the wave and try to take the highest line you can take so you have the speed to punch through if you need to. at least thats what i do and it works for me. maybe being 170+ pounds helps too haha
