was calling for 4-5 offshore winds today at 20mph. BS!!! It was at least 6-8 feet barreling and 10-15mph!!!
Surfed 4 hours. 2 of them alone...the the last 2 w/ one other dude!! Bomb sets...easily 8 footers...barreling....reeling...perfect south swell lines! Thank you Santa!! What a freaking morning...Frothin!!
firing this morning, was a good way to say goodbye to 2011. hope everyone got "SOOO PITTED!!!" btw check the buoy44065 - 3AM was 9ft@11sec
Conditions were surprisingly better then expected (really good actually). Unfortunately my body and brain were not jiving.. couldn't pull it together out there today. Still, stayed out for 2 1/2 hrs then finally said ok this wasn't meant to be. Think I over-stoked.
At first there was just this: And then there was this: And then this: And that went on for most of the morning pretty much like this: And this:
one of the heaviest days ive ever surfed, no exaggeration. outside of tropical swells, this might have been the heaviest. huge, thick waves came in and really jacked up. surfed a good 90 minutes before work this morning and was stoked all day, EXCEPT for the fact that my thruster snapped you could fit a car in the bigger barrels. hope everyone got some today
Early AM the wind was tolerable. By 9am it was howling 20mph. By noon ripping at 30+mph gusts. Spent a lot of time getting held up the face by the wind... didn't see a whole lot of people catching much of anything today, but when you were lucky enough to get into one you got shacked. There were some periods where it backed off and let a few waves through, but was mostly annoying. Would have been insane without the howling offshores.
Damn, really bummed I had to work today...I needed this swell for my mental and spiritual health. BLAH
Glad to hear some agreement that this was heavy for a head high forecast. I was out for about 20 minutes at 9am some place between Asbury and Long Branch with dark sand and it was too much for my ability. I spoke with somebody on the beach who called it small. I thought I'd lost my senses.
****ing just got out the water fun ass day at monahans, got some real nice inside shots hands up sucka
Stoked! Was out in Spring Lake today and got so many barrels - felt like I doubled my tally of barrel rides for the year Drove north through Belmar afterwards and was so stoked to see almost every jetty going off with others getting shacked! What a way to end the year.
i got this series today, i dont know who it is, but a sweet barrel, it was southside of casino pier today, i believe it goes bottom to top in order. bummed i didnt catch the rest of the wave[/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG]
