My best session of the year had to be the day before Hurricane Irene hit. Most everyone had been evacuated from the beaches (thank you Mr. Christie!). There was no wind, sunny skies, 85 degree air, 75 degree water and the surf was well overhead long period swells with plenty of non closeouts. It felt like the day was a gift from the gods, good luck to all in 2012! What is yours?
same here. day before irene. ALMOST nobody was in town except me and a good friend. Had the best break to myself all morning. It wasn't all that big, probably only chest-head, but perfect peeling with light onshores if I remember correctly. Some of the longest most rippable waves I have ever surfed in NJ. Long walls that would not close out! Plus the whole evacuation thing just added to the excitement of it all.
Can't remember the date- Know it was a Sat. morning at Wallups Is. this Fall. 3-4 ft glass with a few sets a little bigger. There was a girl surfing that morning, had to be the best female I have ever been in the water with. She was going for it on some pretty steep bombs & surfing as good as anyone that day. It was a fun session, the crowd was not too big & pretty mellow.
Can't remember the date, but there was a swell one Sunday in the beginning of fall in OCMD that was unbelievable. got shacked numerous times that day...
The day before Irene wasn't stellar, but even if it was, the evacuation order was posted and they had squads of Lifeguards posted every three blocks ensuring no one even ventured out on the beach. Since I was in town to work that day, I figured I'd hit it before going home anyway, but this is what greeted me @ 36th St. You can see the guards under the blue umbrella on the left. Maybe next time, but I did score some fun waves down at Assateague to be sure.
Memorial Day in OBX, water was about 55 degrees because of the upwelling, luckily i had my suit. the cold water kept everyone out so it was just me and couple friends out in chest high + surf and super glassy. definitely one for the books!
some friday in either october or november with consistent 4 to 5 foot waves not closing out breaking just right
Thursday, October 20th in obx ( only reason i remember the date is because it was Surflines Good to Epic pic)
A few that I can remember: April 29th up in Spring Lake- Overhead barrels The whole Irene Swell with noone around Katia down in the Outer Banks TWO WEEK MENTAWAIS INDO BOAT TRIP- WINNER!
the Saturday before Irene in the am before the wind got on it, 8-10 ft clean and powerful at a spot that normally in those conditions would have had easily 150 heads in the water, I surfed it with oh about 2 dozen or so locals - thanks to the roads closing and evac hysteria. Sunday would've loved to have surfed the DOH afternoon bombs but was busy sump pumping out my crawlspace and putting back my lawn furniture. Then, the Monday after Irene I took the day off and it was warm and sunny, semi-glassy and chest/shoulder to occ head ALL DAY, of course the crowds showed up but there were enough waves to keep everyone happy. A good # of decent hit-and-run swells all spring into summer. But nothing to compare to Irene.
no question the day of irene. one of the best barrels of my life in front of like 200 ppl watching at the pit.
23Dec08: Hulton's N.S Hawaii 6ft with perfect swell angle. Just kept catching wave after wave. Wife thought I was stoned when I got home because I had perma-grin on. Cape Hatt Lighthouse circa '06: 6-8 ft faces with 5 guys out. Old man probably in his mid 60's on a shortboard catches a perfect left from the where the lighthouse used to be and works it all the way to the beach, then gets out and walks back to his car. Last Tuesday in Rodanthe: 6 guys out, chest high and an un-expected lefts peeling for 20-30 yards. Not epic but a good surf before making a 9 hour drive inland to see family. Sometimes the best sessions aren't only about the waves but the energy of the day maybe?
The day before and after Irene, as well as the rest of the month of August and September down here in Jacksonville. Surfed outstanding surf in the chest high to double overhead range for a month and the offshores cooperated.
Had to be the day after Irene in OBX. No work, no one idiots in town nothing but chest to head high perfection with sunny skies
in Hatteras on the southside south point tower on international surf day in june it went offshore in the afternoon and was perfect for hours.i'll never forget that day