Spooky Surf Spots

I hear ya... I hate crowded surf breaks, but I always feel more comfortable with others in the water.

 

Costa Rica - Little Hawaii

I got creped out at a surf spot called Little Hawaii in Costa Rica. I linked up with a surf camp for the day and we checked Playa Avellana and decided to walk up to Little Hawaii. Which, I never surfed before. There were rain squalls everywhere, dark and gloomy. Not a soul in sight. Passed one river mouth that looked crocky. When we arrived at the break I was shocked to see how big it was; 10-12ft and started breaking about 400 yards out all the way into the shoreline, beautiful wave, but very heavy. We had to paddle through an eight foot shore break that was relentless. The rip was like a river (Stage 5). All I now is that the break was sand and lava reef. Lava reef is worse than coral reef, very sharp and solid. I caught a few great waves, but would pull out of any sketchy close out sections; I was in survival mode. Paddling back out to the line was a major feat. By the way, not one person made it any further than 100 yards out.

Break Details - http://www.wannasurf.com/spot/Central_America/Costa_Rica/Guanacaste/little_hawaii/index.html

 

Playa Negra isn't sketchy! it has vacation homes and a really nice hotel cafe right in front of the main break. The wave looks a lot scarier than it is. The first time I was taken there, I thought that I was going to die.Solid 15-20+ bombs. I sat outside and watched a few local friends surf the peak for an hour. Long enough to get my head straight and grow some balls. BTW those rocks hold some delicious lobsters.

 

My homeboy down in CR told me his friend surfed Negra in 2X Overhead, wiped out on a wave, smacked his head on the reef and died.

Stranded...sounds like you've been a lot of places. It's not really about the place, it was more a vibe i felt for a couple seconds there....it's happened to me b4 in OC. Heavy fog, dusk, a 7 foot shark about 20 yds away...spooky, but the waves were too good to paddle in...so i enjoyed the spookyness

 

People have drowned surfing Tamrindo beach..At Negra where the main wave breaks, the water is around 20 ft deep. The wave also collapses in a uniform fashion and only will close out towards the end of a long section. I haven't seen the break perfectly clean. Hopefully I can catch a good swell there in the future.

 

Stinson Beach N. California. Shark signs...shark alarms...chest to shoulder high, no wind and glassy... me and one guy out. Didn't know each other. Felt the vibe the whole sesh...Pucker factor=9.6. Never been so glad to be back on land. Salmon Creek N. California a close second...Go back this Feb. Can't wait to do it again.

 

Sketchiest spot on the east coast... definitely Manasquan Inlet. Lots of sharks and other dangerous aquatic species. lots of pointy shells on the bottom, and occasional deadly whirlpool. Do not surf here ever, no matter what.

 

Yea i have seen sharks there so sketchy

 

There's a spot near Ensenada called Cannery's. Basically, it's a fish processing plant that just dumps everything it doesn't use straight into the ocean, literally making it the largest chum factory in Baja. You can't see below your knees as you sit on your board, the water is so murky. Duck diving under waves makes your skin and eyes burn like hell. Throw in the major shark vibe, and it only took one time for me to surf this place.

Never again.

And then there's those Northwestern spots with their occasional Orcas....but that's another story.

 

The sketchiest part of MI is trying to dodge the 40 other people in the lineup, that place is so overhyped...

 

im out in the san fransisco/ sana cruz area every couple months and it doesnt get much more sharky than that. i love the feeling of bein spooked the whole session, it makes you paddle for every wave lol

 

you guys have some great stories. I haven't had any experiences like yours, but down here in va there are fish all over the place. I haven't seen any sharks, but I see fish and usually dolphins every time I go out...not saying I'm afraid of dolphins, just stating.

 

yeah, my bad...I meant to say Playa Avellana..

 

Yah I've surfed Seal Rock, Salmon Creek, Bodega Bay. I think its one of the scariest areas to surf being a part of the food chain along with the sea lions, great whities, underwater earthquakes, fog, rocks, cold water, Makes everywhere else childs play.. But boy! if you catch any of those places right its fantastic..

 

you guys are gay, I surf in tiger shark breeding grounds on quarter mile paddles and than go spear fishing after!

 

I'm not a seasoned traveler like other members of this board. I've surfed Costa Rica and Hawaii and the only place I've ever really been spooked at was Frisco in the Outer Banks, probably because that is the spot I surf most often and have been there in all types of conditions. It doesn't happen all the time, but sometimes when I'm alone and it's stormy coupled with the sandbar being 1/3rd mile out, it's an eerie place to be on the East Coast, at least. Plus I've seen a lot of big things caught there.

 

I was lifted out of the water and off my board by an easy 8ft shark in Frisco. Seen a picture of a 12ft Tiger shark following riders in the waves at Pea Island. You dont make yourself overly conspicuous in these places.

 

Not to name spots but since you're calling everyone out you're probably talking about H___h_ds or in and around that area. Don't worry, I'm not giving gps coordinates and it aint on any surf sites...surfed that solo as well...Many times with my one friend. In my opinion one of the best waves I've ever surfed when it's on. Spooky...For the record, I was more spooked at Stinson Beach, CA.

 

Dude the first time I ever surfed Frisco Pier my dad drove me down there and right before I paddled out in some heavy fog, my dad says thats where I caught my first shark, 6 foot, have fun

 

OBX shark stories...
First time I took my wife (then girlfriend) out to teach her how to surf was at Frisco pier. Being from the midwest she was not the most comfortable with the ocean. The walk down the beach to the south side of the pier... her "didn't you say this place is sharky" ...me (total lie) "naw that was somewhere else"... as we walk under the pier to see the head of a good size sand tiger caught and decapitated the night before...her (in terror) "O my god! is that a shark's head?"...me (total lie)"naw I think its a dolphin besides you'll be alright I'll stand on the bar and push you in nothing to worry about." Sketchy. Winter 2006 or 2007ish gulf stream in super close I mean we were riding in some cold arse months with no gloves or hood stright burning up in 4/3s. Buxton north of the 3rd jetty. Surf casting on a slow surf day. Saw a hammerhead (read...hammerhead... open water, gulf stream, 14 miles out cruising shark) just off the beach grab a bird out of the surf. Crazy.