For me it was hurricane Danny right after Bill. So many people went to my local break but only about 10 guys made it out because of how insane the current was on the inside. But once you made it out the currents just stopped. At one point it was just me and four other guys sitting off the pipe just taking turns catching all of these consistent, glassy waves. Great vibe and good waves
In March, walked up the beach to Trestles from San Onofre about two hours before sunset. clean and waist to chest high perfect A-frame nuggets. There were about 15 ppl out at Lowers when we got there and by the time the sun set about 6 of us left and the last 45 minutes was glassy and there were like four of us left sharing perfect little waves, dolphins in the lineup, and Lowers doing its perfect little thing.
Katia swell in Rhodie was epic. Head and a half to double overhead. Some of the best waves of my life. This past Thursday was fun mass. Probably the best session this winter and fall. Perfect chest to shoulder about as fun as it gets.
An early morning in sunrise session in April, waves were barely breaking it was either surf or paint the bedroom... I went anyways, one guy out. After a few grovels, out of nowhere a waist to chest swell fills in, complete glass and the 2 of us traded waves for 2 hours before anyone else realized. Forecast was for 1foot dribble - totally Mysto!
Multiple epic sessions this year in many of our various inlets here in SE NC. Almost each time no more than six people out--the six people I regularly surf with. Longer waves than I have ever hopped on a plane for. I think I will still be frothing about it a couple years from now
Yesterday, the last day of 2011. Small but clean, 2 other guys out, complete and total peace... It was the perfect way to end 2011.
Irene ocmd at 1pm. Im use to surfing assateague so im not use to barrels but my first wave i caught just opened up right at my head level so i just ducked and shot right in. The remenants of emily in cape hatteras was very fun. And that last hurricane late fall in kittyhawk i think it was i found a spot a mile left of a pier and had a parking strip near right at the break almost. Surfed 630 am to 8 alone to come back to a huge crowd. Then packed up at finished off in chincoteague/assateague va till dark.
Jealous...I love that spot! Either there or Jocko's next door on a 6-8 ft day is pretty much as fun as surfing gets for me.
my best day...was kind of a sh!tty year to be honest, living like an inlander the past year and missed all the epic days. it's great to hear all these stories though, thanks for sharing the stoke and happy new year to everybody!
Yea, Hulton's is so much fun and was my go-to spot for the two winters I was there. There were no sneaker sets that day and you could just sit on the corner between there and Jocko's and catch lefts that would swing thru. At that reef, 6 foot backs would be a different story and my pucker factor would be about an 8. Didn't like getting caught inside at that place.
callin it right now today will the best day of 2012 atleast here in ocmd tis morn was all time big, super clean, relatively warm, heavy yet make able, and best of all it was uncrowded yewww
April 17th was it.....big ol swell, in NJ at least. August 7th was good for me cause my Mays Landing vacation ended. Irene Sunday wasn't doing it in South Jersey like it was up north...but yeah that Monday was rippable. Katia Saturday was great....Maria(?) Friday was good in my neck of the woods cause we like North winds. There were a couple of swells in October that were good. November 5th had some size to it. Tropical Storm Sean was the **** at my spot(second week of November).....I heard people up north complaining about that one but they should have traveled. Had a decent sized swell early December....and a great swell around Dec 12 maybe..A Friday I think and it was still fun the next day.....Also enjoyed a couple of heavy NE wind days(though the swell was only 3-5)..wind wipping down the beach no one around....just drifting and thinking......drifting and thinking....But who cares about my fond memories of 2011 right. Sorry to bother everybody. I just got caught up in the moment.