Surfing is truly something special. No matter what religion, skin color, ethnicity, whatever differences you can think of, it breaks all of them down and connects every person because when it really comes down to it, we're all human beings. I really noticed this the Wednesday when a couple of my buds and I went down to my friends beach house in corolla to hang out while they are home from college ( These guys don't surf and i wish my friend had room in his car for my board but alas, he didn't. It looked fun for my fun board!!). Anyway, I brought along a couple surf movies which included my all-time favorite September Sessions and another movie called Fair Bits feat. Taj Burrow. We were all super bored and I asked if they wanted to watch them to kill some time and they said sure. I put in September Sessions and at first they talked a lot and asked questions but then they just got real quiet and just sat back watched Kelly, Rob, and some of the greatest surfers ever get barreled out of their minds in Indo. The music, the scenes, and the waves in that movies are just all time. At the end of it, I looked over at them and they both looked at me, smiled, and said, "That was incredible." It just got me so stoked to show people who don't surf who come in with this bad idea of surfing and show them what surfing truly is. Surfing is great but more importantly, life is the most beautiful thing in the world. I guess what i'm trying to say is don't live a day of your life without doing something you want to to do or try, don't get angry at the dumb things in life, and don't go a day without smiling or laughing because there is always something you can find to make you happy. Life is too short. Live it up and go surfing. Andy
Very well said. Before I started surfing I found myself as a nasty and pessimistic person, and than I caught my first wave and it had changed my whole life. Whenever I'm feeling down I love to just run down to the beach and paddle out and just float in the water and think to myself. There is literally no feeling that can compare to surfing... I know you guys are gonna think i'm crazy when I say this, but it's better than sex! All of the people around me seem to solve all of their problems by getting wasted and high all the time, which I have nothing against those who do drugs. But in my opinion surfing is a drug! It enhances your mind and soul, and creates a general atmosphere of pure happiness. And body boarding has that same atmosphere from my point of view. I think the utter beauty is from the connection of man and the ocean. But I can also say that when we have those dreadful flat spells I find myself in a very bad mood, in fact i will cut a B****!
+1 It doesn't matter what kind of mood I'm in before I go surfing, I always come out of the water with an "all is right with the world" attitude. There is absolutely nothing on this earth that is better than a good surf session.
i agree, my girlfriend says im a better person when i surf regularly, hah so she supports my habit I currently dont have the ability to surf regularly now and its a downer, but its made me realize how much I really like surfing and just being around the water in general. Moreover though, I have also realized I cannot depend on something else to make me happy. I have to be happy with myself, to truly be happy. Everything else is just a bonus. Like the andy irons said "I surf because..." . I surf because im a better person when i get out.
Amen! I lost a lot of years to drugs and booze and it wasn't until around this time last year that I finally got clean. While I was proud of my achievement, there was a terrible void in my life and I couldn't keep my mind off of drinking. About six months ago I began surfing and since then I haven't been able to stop thinking about surfing long enough to think about having a drink. I am a calmer, happier person after a good session. I have never felt such peace and tranquility within myself as I do when I'm on the water. I have a new addiction and I don't plan on kicking this habit anytime soon...
Good on ya man. I see a lot of people get caught up in drinking and drugs and using that as an escape or a way to let loose. For me surfing and snowboarding is that escape and feeling of freedom, its refreshing to see others with a similar mentality. No need for any of that other garbage...
