Sup guys? So this may sound like sort of a dumb question but what exactly is the best way to handle a close-out with the least risk of injury and more importantly to me, board damage? In a situation where you can't go over the top or quickly shoot in front of the wave before it collapses, what really are your options? I mean i usually just hope i make it and whatever happens happens. Is there really anything you can do, other than dolphin diving through the back? Thanks!
really depends on where you are on the wave. Every ride and wave can be completely different. Some waves will detonate in front of you, over you, ect.... So each will end with a different approach. If you can't zip out in front or back door it...you just gotta grab your nuggets and take it like a man. I find myself going into a fetal position while at the same time staying loose...if that makes sense. It's funny though how you are more worried about your board then yourself.
i always cover my head just incase my board comes back to hit me. That and curl up into a ball...once I get pass the falls I spread out and try and to swim to the surface
Ultimately better wave selection is the cure, but we all huck ourselves into a good one now and then. Assuming you are talking about what to do when you realize you are screwed in the middle of the drop: kick out the board, put your hands up above your head to prevent neck injury, and enjoy the ride...
If you have time and enough speed you can do the "hawaiian pullout" where you hard turn into the face of the breaking wave and punch through the back. With a little luck and some arm strokes you can avoid the suction and going OTF.
closeout vs section is only a matter of how fast you are going. Wave selection is key. Before you commit to a wave, you should at least be sure that you can pull in and catch a safe line. You have to pay to play, no guts no glory, don't hold back, BUT, pulling into a sh*t sandwich is just stupid. About half way through my bottom turn, I judge how hard to turn back up the wave based on a quick assessment of the line. If I can see it getting really vertical I shoot up and take the high line, always faster and an easier out. If it's all under control, I stay low and try to get pitted. Down the line speed and rail control are also critical. Once you are up and racing the wave, a section / closeout should be your ramp or bank! If I am riding the high line, and I know my section is coming, I have a choice now- I can stay high and try to race it, I can go back off the bottom and drive into the section, or, I can say "eff that" and cleanly turn out the back. It's like skiing / snowboarding- the faster you go, the easier it is. If you are going slow or are off balance and you see that section coming, well, then you should read these other posts about how to take a pounding. Hope that helped, I'm getting older and I enjoy getting my sh*t packed less and less....
I think this sums it up. Good advice. If you are surfing bigger overhead + waves no matter how you try to avoid the closeout, there's going to always be one with your name on it. If you follow leethestud's advice and still find youself in a perdicament where you know you're gonna get your a$$ handed to you then the best thing to do after you straighten out and jump away from your board is to penetrate and relax, relax, relax. Try not to ditch your board under the lip, that's the worst place to be for you or the board. Good luck now go and find yourself a closeout and make friends.
Yup i cover up my head with my hands and just relax. now i really cant say ive surfed in waves of consequence yet but im one of those guys that goes on just about anything. I dunno. it's kinda fun getting blown up on when you know there's sand on the bottom haha. I just hope my board doesn't get ****ed up
excellent question..... personally I've never made it out of a barrel. I surf Long Island and northern New jersey and on those rare days that its barreling its mostly close-outs. I have no problem commiting and taking it like a man. No guts no glory.. I guess we need some points or reefs to make it out the black hole..
depends. in the summer I will pull into anything no matter what really and no care. when the water gets cold I get a lot more selective and I usually straighten out on closeouts. it depends on the wave though, so its all about water time *I still go for it in the winter, I'm more careful. I usually go through the back of the wave when it closes out whilst im in the barrel. skeet skeet skeet
just make sure you get the board out from under you. Kick that thing out so the lip doesn't pile drive you right through it!
Tyler Hatzikian agrees: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zuI7XBxW_tw I, on the other hand, usually just get worked, but I get a fun ride out of it (before getting worked) every now and again, too...
Hawaiian pullout. Grab your outside rail and pull it into the face hard. Makes you compact and less surface area for the wave to toss you. ~Brian www.greenlightsurfsupply.com Shape Your Surfing Experience
