big waves 1-27-12

where you surfing at?
Im stoked this swell has popped up tommorow. ive been sponging a few years now but i dropped into a ~9ft closeout once during hurrican bill i just started bodyboarding like you.
if you think your up to the challenge then i say go for it. but be cautious.
since your used to 4ft and this is double that timing will be critical when you turn into the wave and if you take the high line or low line and zip down the pocket tomorrow calls for west winds so that means getting shacked my brotha!

 

Depends, its gonna be warm tomorrow, so you may be more comfortable. When you get down to the beach, take a while to watch where the waves are breaking, where everyone is paddling out at, etc..... I wouldn't go near Monmouth County if I were you!

 

Can you hold your breath......do you panic when it get overhead? You have to get over that threshold someday. So if you are in shape, and you use a leash.....go for it. Really, take a look at the waves. Watch one break and imagine the worst case hold/beat down possible.....is it really that bad? There's only a few days here and there that the east coast tries to drown you. The mind Psyche-Out factor plays a big part.

Relax don't panic......that's the key. You'll pop up....especially with the rubber on. Just go with it. Enjoy the tumble. Hey if you want a guide to Monmouth County's best spots just let me know or Etl you can pay me to keep silent. I don't accept Mastercard.

Oh and don't hesitate paddling in....Paddle hard and WANT to make the drop. Don't have second thoughts halfway down the face. Good luck.

 

oh also .....surf as much choppy, out-of-control days as you can. All of you new guys. Just go......it will teach you, as the Australians say, heaps......

 

if you can swim and know the currents, you will be fine. Just know which waves to take. I don't think it will be that crazy anywhere today. This short period stuff won't be that intense. If it were some long period hurricane swell that was overhead I would be a bit more cautious if I were you, but that's not the case.

 

it's tiny...

 

Oh attention Monmouth County dudes: Unless you pay me a handsome sum, I will expose all of your shred spots to the masses. Ergo you'll have to wait. I need to give some time to the Monmouth County residents tp pay for my silence. And you can't get back at me either because there are no good spots left in South Jersey anymore. (Diabolical laughter) OMG.

Oh HEY ZUES, I'm just kidding. GAWD you guys are so serious. Sorry Ergo, I can't in good conscience do that. But on the bright side, finding places in Jersey isn't that difficult.

 

how was it today?? I work a 3-11 night shift. Was slop all morning Looked pretty good on the cams. How'd the OP make out?? ergo, that means original poster.. FYI lol

 

That's true. You should be a good smimmer and understand where the currents are. I don't always agree with the hurricane swell being more intense though. I think winter swells with the shorter periods (talking Nor' easters) with the howling offshores can be way more heavy/intense then hurricane long period swell which breaks very soft.

 

Intense yes.... Heavy... uuhhhh, what are you smokin???

 

Cold water is denser than 75 degree September water. Thus, foot for foot, winter waves are heavier.

 

I may have to disagree as well. On average, I think that the ground swells we get from hurricanes have a lot more juice than the winter swells. Maybe that's just me, and it could be that I do not go out during out of control Nor'easter conditions.

I surf year round to be fit and prepare for the hurricane swells come late summer.

 

Dudes, there are so many variables to account for when comparing winter storms and 'canes. Hurricanes do tend to get overhyped and most of the east's classic days come from non-tropical swells. Concerning power, well I guess if a Cat 4 is sitting 200 miles off your coast, your shred spot is going to have some significant power but ........the closer the cane, the more closed-out it will be. The best tropical swells are when the storm is fairly far off the coast from your favorite shred spot. Sending well groomed, but not overpowering, ground swell to everyone's favorite jetty. Is that better than a winter low pressure system? I don't know. The answer is kind of subjective. Like the other day the great LBcrew got it good up in that North Jersey area, while my spot basically sucked.....Everything's luck.....being at the right spot at the right time when all the elements line up together. A classic day at my spot might be just fair twenty miles up or down the coast.

 

I agree. DE will probably see mushy hurricane surf while NJ will see some pumping waves. I can see the winter time being a bit more heavier, but it may feel that way with all the rubber on. I always feel more fatigued as if I worked harder through winter waves than surfing in nothing but board shorts in the summer time

 

I concure that colder water is heavier than warm water. I remember how soft the warm waters of Costa Rica are even in big surf. But I've also surfed Northern Cali in Sonoma where the water is cold all the time; very heavy waves and serious conditions. The coldest I've surfed on East Coast was 34 water, 35 air and off shores. When I got tubed and gobbled up it felt like I was being squeezed by the ocean. Well worth the perfect glass but definately heavier. I also notice that the glide is faster on colder water. Like ice skating. Love it!!! Know your limits.

 

I like this post^. good solid ramble. agreed though, on long island nor'easters seem to bring in cleaner swell.

 

I was curious about the cold/hot water density question and found a bunch of conflicting information around the intertubernets. Here's a water density calculator from Frostburg St. http://antoine.frostburg.edu/chem/senese/javascript/water-density.html

Here's Wikipedia's take: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Properties_of_water#Density_of_water_and_ice

From what I've read, cold water is definitely more dense than hot water, but probably not enough to really make a difference in terms of the wave being noticeably "heavier" when one bails on a wave or takes a closeout on the head. It probably has more to do with the temperature of the water rather than the actual density -- perceived density, if you will -- which, in my opinion, doesn't make the "feeling" of it being more dense any less true in a real-world context. AKA if it feels heavier to you, it is heavier!