Isn't surfing rediculous?

Because we are maneuvering boards in the ocean and avoiding wipe-outs! Come on man!

 

Ridiculous* (pet peeve)

And if that's all surfing is to you, I think you've missed some of its finer points. Surfings about way more than maneuvering a board.

 

Addicted, addicted,addicted....I got a major problem and love every minute of it!!!! Only problem is a I live on the east coast and can't get my fix everyday. Surfing has taken me to the most beautiful and exotic places in the world, I've met some of the coolest people on the planet, eaten some of the best food, and oh yea catchin a wave ain't to bad either. Rehab is for quitters.

 

Therapy. Its just one of those ways that we humans have found that lets us truly be in harmony with the earth and the forces around it and that move it. Its simple to see how it could be addictive..It makes us happy. Who isn't for that?..oh yeah, inspiration too.

 

We are harnessing energy sent through the universe...

 

^^^^absolutely swellinfo!

 

Now pass the blunt.

 

I think if you're just trying "to avoid wiping out" you are taking the wrong approach entirely

 

maybe next time your out try to close your eyes, feel the energy... feel the waves, understand that once you enter the ocean it is no longer home.. it is no longer safe.. the ocean is the only place on earth where man i not top of the food chain. it is about the feeling of being lost.. forgetting about everything and let the ocean taking you over... today and wed i was out with my best friends and their is nothing better than sharing waves hooting and hollering. and enjoying the beauty of this world. never take it for granted because you never know when you won't get it again.

 

i'm not religious, but the beach is my church and surfing is communion. pass the blunt over here!

 

I dunno. I usually land things when I don't wipe out.

 

I would call that trying to land it rather than trying not to wipe out- you could stand perfectly still (on an LB or SUP) & never have to worry about falling and that's lame

 

A2... I hear ya, brother. Wednesday night's cleanup was freakin' awesome. My best session of this week's run of swell. Ate dinner with the family, went down to the beach, and got perfect chest/shoulder high sets with just a couple other guys. Pulled into a few little tubes... watched the stars come out. Drove home in the dark. Gives you that soulful feeling...

THAT's what makes it all worth it... and why we can't let go and keep coming back.

 

Isn't that what most SUPs do anyway? Believe me, when I'm having an off day I will try the same stuff but it is more so on the "not trying to wipe out" side of things. When I'm on, its more of the "trying to land things."
Actually, I just though of something that is going to turn our incredibly semantical discussion on it's head: Barrel riding. Is it staying mostly still and trying not to wipe out while getting deep as possible, or are you trying to land it(figuratively speaking)?

Did someone mention something about a blunt? Oh yeah, back to the topic, I have always loved the water and have always tried to spend as much time as possible in or on it--that's why I'm addicted to surfing.

 

I'll hit that too. I was 100% surf stoke until I did some traveling. That humbled me a bit. Now if the waves are good, I go surfing. If they suck, I ride my motorcycle or mountainbike or sit in the garage smoking J's. Surfing is hands down still my favorite way to let loose but a working man has to pick his battles, especially on this coast. Basically, the travels taught me that if I was as serous about surfing as I thought I was, I would have moved somewhere with better waves. Surfing takes a place in your life, and it is exactly where you put it.

 

Surfing is the only sport where I could sit on the beach and watch the ocean for hours and not be bored. I dont look up pics of basketball courts or football fields. Not only are you controlling the surfboard but the entire ocean is also constantly moving and alot more powerful and humbling than anything on earth. No half pipe or vert ramp will ever give you the feeling of dropping in to a big wave or getting ****ed up by big wave. o and pass that blunt.

 

Working for almost your entire useful life.... Now thats ridiculous - but we still do it.

 

amen to everything said on this thread except the traveling part. I still need to get on that. pass it over here.

 

We could hit a stationary small white ball with metal clubs in small holes scattered throughout a manacured grass course. Nah, I'll surf.