If an Alien came down to earth and observed me, he would be really confused about this boring human who spends so much time staring at a rectangular screen. But, then when the alien observed me going out and playing in the ocean, the alien would be relieved that I was not such a waste of a human.
to the OP...if that's all your getting out of it, then your doing something wrong...just being in the water for me is the purest form of enjoyment, it helps me to forget about all the bs in life/on land...it's like that part in Goonies, when they're down under the manhole cover and the kid says, "up there, that's your time, but down here, man this is our time" or whatever the f he says...i can't explain it, but without surfing I am a miserable f&ck...i could ramble on, but f%ck it, pass that mutha.
rediculous or addrenalin The rediculous is taking what your doing as something special...anybody can surf.I get the same rush off a roller coaster,speeding in a car,running down hill and catching a big fish.endorfans(sp)the speed your body creates.
Golf is by far the most boring sport, if you even consider it one. imo anyway. i would rather chase waves and run up and down or paddle up and down the beach than a big lawn. surfing brings out who you really are and gives me time to really appreciate being able to do it.
I disagree completely with your statement. To me, the rush I get from surfing is like nothing else and is much more deeply concentrated and is a connectivity with something much more powerful than anything. Surfing is something special, at least to me. I know for a fact that not every one can surf. Anyone can grab a board yes, but not everyone can surf. However, even though some people can not surf, it does not mean that they cannot feel something special from being in the water on a surfboard. All forms of life and everything is energy, when we are surfing, we are completely tuning into the raw energy of the ocean and becoming a moving part of it-the fluidity. Just think about a great bottom turn and connecting lines and turns and slides-you are in tune with the energy of the ocean-which to me is the most powerful thing in our world. As far as the specialness, I believe the answer to that lies within each of us uniquely and should be kept there.
Everything each of us as individuals do in life is ridiculous to someone. The point is to find what makes you happy, and it is something a little different for all of us. You can love surfing but not be in love with it. And thats ok. Each of us is different and thats what makes life so awesome. Embrace the world around you and find what makes You happy, and dont give a **** what anyone else thinks about you. Life is meant to be lived, either surfing or skating or riding bmx or rock climbing or painting or playing music or painting or whatever it is you love to do. Find it and hold on to it.
I totally agree and I think the golf hate is largely socio-economic. Hatred of the perceived country club set = a dislike of golf itslef. If you think about it golf has a lot in common with surfing; perhaps more so than any other sport! Like a surfer a golfer must judge the conditions like the wind and the course conditions and those conditions constantly vary. They have a "quiver" of clubs that are the best tool for the different shots. Different courses have different challenges much like different breaks and types of waves do. They both have extremely steep learning curves and require enormous dedication due to the complexity of the movements themselves and required mastery of many elements. and if you think golf is an easy leisure activity (which hillariously parrallels what many people who don't know think about surfing think: children playing in waves) try playing a round a day for four days straight in the heat of the day without a cart- and don't forget a few practice rounds before hand to get the lay of the land so to speak. That said I don't even play golf but I repsect the hell out of it & would like to but I won't do anything half assed and don't have the time/money to dedicate to putting my full effort into it- it would take away from my surfing. and golf is great spectator sport in person or on TV- likely better entertainment in both forms than surfing comps (don't get me wrong I follow ASP very closely & enjoy contests).
If you dont think that getting a swell is the best free gift from nature then you probably souldnt be surfing.
Maybe because i am only 20 i view it as very boring and would rather surf. perhaps once i get old and way less athletic i will look more into it.
I'm 26 and love golfing .. been playing since I was a youngster .. Surfing is definitely priority but golfing is very dope!
golfing is a beautiful sport that take alot of skill and patience to play. defiantly not for me. rather walk to the beach and see perfect 6 foot waves offshore winds and no one out. nothing in the world can compare to that feeling. better than any drug on this planet.