long period obx = closeouts or lines?

i picked up hitchhikers back in my day, but you...i dont know. such a sketch cat. keeps emailing me looking for a "good time" idk sounds fishy to me boys and girls. watch out for kellyrojo78 i just dont trust him.

 

ground swell -> OBX -> yes, go.

 

15 or 16 secs would prob close out but 12-13 would be legit like SI mentioned above...check out the hurricane bill foooooooooootagee

 

I'm interested in the reasoning as to why long period swell on most east coach beach breaks are always walled? Is it simply because of really weak sandbars? The only reason it is confusing to me is because all of the Costa beach breaks I surf are always lining up pretty well with 16-18 sec periods. I'm sure there are many variables involved (swell direction, weak sandbars, etc), but could someone explain to me why on the east coast when we see long period swell on the way we immediately think "closeout city."

 

It's called short sandbars and steep drop offs in places like NJ. If the sand bar extends far out and has a more gradual slope it won't close out as bad. Just look at some of the footage from hurricane bill in florida. Breaking like 1/4 mile out off the beach as some spots with peeling a-frames and that was with a 15 second swell.

In New Jersey for example, it's a completely different type of wave. It's super heavy and hollow and closes out a lot even with a 4 foot at 8 second swell and breaks extremely close to shore. That's because the sand bar doesn't extend far out. Some places don't break at all or shorepound. Replenishment projects using different sand grain/techniques that they use in Florida is the main reason for this type of sand bar break in much of the mid atlantic.

OBX has great sandbars, but the paddle out can be hard as with any beach break in a big ground swell. Should be doable with this swell for sure though! Go for it! Just know your own limits.

 

Thanks for droppin' that knowledge. And I know all about ****ty paddle outs. Anyone here ever surf playa Bejuco on a big day? 30 minutes of straight grinding to get out there. Hope everyone gets some this week/end, we definitely deserve it.

 

A small day there is better than any good day in Myrtle Beach. A 2 foot wave in OBX has the power of a waist high+ in Myrtle. Oh and bring your huevos you might just need them And try not to make the rest of us jealous when you get back.

 

Yo, anyone know where to launch some jetski's??? I'm thinking of a tow session at a break near you!

 

go to bouge peir brah it holds 20 second swells. Plzz dont go to the obx

 

Tow in is a joke under 5 times overhead. You need 35 foot plus waves for that.
Anyway a jet skit just a danger in the lineup. Think being hit by a surfboard hurts? Try a jetski. It will probably be fatal. Tow in is for 50 foot jaws. Not for a few feet overhead waves. Learn how to paddle into a wave.

 

I lived at folly for a while a few years back... and, surfed all over the east coast as well as carribean and central america. OBX will be good this swell, and i will be there. so pumped, i have had trouble getting to sleep and focusing on work before waves come. get sum son

 

nah, its cool. I get to steal all the waves from the locals trying to paddle in then give'em the stink eye for trying to paddle in on my waves. More waves for me.

 

That's probably why you surf solo, b/c you have no friends. I wonder how you operate the ski and ride a wave at the same time. just saying.

 

Just a hint, but there are quite a few spots between you and the OBX that will hold any kind of swell you throw at it.

Just put on your thinking cap and look at bathymetry charts....

 

yeah bro grab your nads and go. 4.5ft at 13 seconds will be like a 6-8 ft face. 2.5@15 this morning was about head high on the face.