I've been watching the reports and charts since Sunday, just waiting for them to drastically change or drop down to red 2-3ft or something else like normal, but NOPE! Not trying to jinx anything, but this looks like this is it. Surfline and Swell info calling for 2+ overhead and clean on weds. so GIDDY UP. I put in the best pitch I could to the boss man yesterday, telling him that this was a once a year, if that, opportunity for me and that I needed to take off Weds. and Thursday and that it would be my sole vacation ( yeah right), but he bought it. He told me to just take the whole week off.....UMMM YES PLEASE! So needless to say I am beyond amped, with a whole week off from work and the forecasts looking the way they are, looks like Christmas came a little early this year, atleast I hope so( again please no jinx). But I will be driving down to the OBX tomorrow from RVA and staying down south and checking all of those spots tomorrow afternoon then crashing in the car or camping until first light Weds. when I hope I wake up to find East Coast perfection, insta-boner type lines.( I can dream can't I?) I have an awful feeling and pretty much know that s-turns and that whole stretch is going to be an absolute zoo with the reports looking like this for so long and the summer having been so flat, but I hope its not too crazy. I'll have to stop and check out the new inlet area or whatever I heard about on here that is before S-turns but I'll probably be doing the stop and drive all the way to the lighthouse before I make a decision. Hope everyone has an incredible week of waves and fun. If anyone needs a ride down to obx in VA, let me know, I am rolling solo as of now. Hope to see some of you all out in the water, just not all of you haha. I'll be surfing way up north for a few days after the peak of this first swell in Corova, never surfed up there besides in Corolla on family vacations, Any suggestions or info on that area the 4x4 corova would be appreciated. Sorry for typing so much, a little inebriated and feeling like a kid on christmas eve! AHHHHHHHHHHH
If everyone keeps talking about it the winds gona change from 18 mph SW to 18 mph SE and blow the entire thing out. But I hope not
Did dawn patrol this morning....and though it was just the first glimpse of the incoming swell I realize it's about to get really big. After today, I have the rest of the week off. I'm equally stoked and scared. My goal is to stop just short of actually surfing my brains out and live to surf the next day.
DP was perfect yesterday at Ponce, i love the underforecasting on SI, kept the crowd to a minimum, although the Labor Day crowd was in full effect, I still had room to work, and I must say I had one of my better sessions, waist to chest glass w/occassional Shoulder / Head Sets (knee to thigh forecast)... I knew it would be bigger than forecasted due to the two storm swells coming, and wow was I right, glad I rolled the dice
Right on brother.....it's great to hear. I worked yesterday so that I can take time off during the week I feel all "Supervisor is genius."
Probably the smart move as it will be pumping all week and with the Labor day crowd at home you'll have more than enough waves to yourself... get there
Small bump yesterday morning on the Treasure Coast. Nothing this morning. Gonna check again this afternoon.
I surfed this morning and there were plenty of closeouts cus our beach is in no shape to get this kinda swell right now, but there were some fun sections, as long as you can surf fast. Its building up for sure. I saw a lot of guys paddling out but just sitting there still gunshy to take off on anything that doesnt look fully makable.
thinking of bringing out my 9 or 11ft gun ....makes the kooks little speed bumps on the wave when I wait outside the crowd.
caught some nice ones yesterday morning, waist to stomach with a little offshore winds in the a.m., where did you check
+1. high tide made it slow down a bit but still plenty of closeouts... a few fun size waves... might be undercalled... IDK.. I gotta good bar I surf regularly....5'6 retro quad made it easy enough... it dawned on me today...you know you're surfing good when everyone paddles out at the peak cuz you're shred'n but eventually goes away because its not worth completing with you catching every wave...awesome
ahh Islas de los Ladrones... Tank still there...for decades no one cared about the stuff... most still don't... some might call it junk...I say if you own a tank... its not junk... Camel Rock still has crates of live ordnance dumped just off the reef... as if a SW typhoon swell needed to be any more dangerous....