no matter how small, playful, and tempting some of the inside shorebreak looks on a ground swell, it's rarely worth the punishment. Took a beating trying to catch one as my last wave....should have called it a day or paddled out further.
Warm water makes the size no biggie. As far as being pounded, been worked worse by 4ft and 40 degrees.
It was a good day all around, a variety of different waves, but I would rather the 40 degree water and way less brochachos out
Ha! I took a good one on the head yesterday, too. I got a big set wave and when I pulled out and over the shoulder, another macker was behind it. I scrambled back out thinking I might be able to just duck under it, but I ended up putting myself right in the impact zone. So when I ducked as deep as I could, it just it bounced me off the bottom. I ended up getting slammed down on my side, board in a death grip in both hands the whole time. When it finally let me go, of course my board floats to the top first, so now I'm upside down still holding my board by both rails, thinking... "good thing it's not winter."
