Va Beach Surf

Great and nice collaboration with surf words..

 

First of all, I'm stoked that you're frothing over the whole surfing thing. Secondly, let me apologize for choosing your thread to place my late-night rant... which is this.

I am from VB, have left and lived in FL, CA, and HI and traveled all over the globe in search of waves. And, NEVER, EVER, have I been in a town in which EVERYONE so exaggerates the size of the waves. For days now, I've been hearing guys talk about the solid overhead surf in VB. BULL@#%T! For the duration of the swell, I've been surfing up and down our small stretch of coast, morning, noon, and night, and haven't seen hide nor hair of these consistent overheads that everyone is ranting about.

On my way home from surfing waist high lines in Sandbridge this evening, some stranger stopped at my car upon seeing my trunks and boards. "Fun waves tonight, eh?" he says. I said something like, "Sure, just wish it would get a bit bigger." To which he replies, "Yesterday was EPIC!" I say "Really, I must've missed that." (Fun, OK. EPIC, no way) He says, "It was solid 7 foot all day!" At this I just had to laugh and walk away.

So my advice to you, my frothing friend is to keep surfing, keep practicing, your lungs will come with time. But, pleeeeeassse do not join the throngs of VB kooks that are out there "shredding the gnar" on every walled-out waist high tropical swell, whilst regaling your friends with stories of double-overhead A-frame Hurricane surf.

 

hahaha. dont you love encounters with strangers? i get a lot of people, not even surfers - actually never surfers, mostly old people stumbling out of rvs - on a maybe waist high day - wow! you were out there! that must be cold and the waves are so rough! - and im all ya i just wish it was bigger and they're like ooohhh he wishes it was biiiiiger. and im just like huh? and fok im glad your reality isnt my reality.

 

Keep the stoke!

 

I couldn't agree more, I was in VB last week. There was small left over swell on Monday and Tuesday. It was my first time surfing there since the 90's... kook central. The water quality is pretty nasty too.

 

haters gonna hate

 

haha glad you scored, brother. VB has been fun the last couple of days. 7 ft is a stretch but sure, i saw some big sets too. It's great to take some poundings because the reward is ultimate. I'm going to OBX this afternoon. Shack city, b*tch

 

It's not about hating. It's about fact vs. fiction. I'm not bashing anyone. It's just that, all too often, newer surfers get caught up in the "fish story" aspect of surfing. The whole "you shoulda been here yesterday" stuff, always calling the surf a foot or two bigger than it actually is... and they don't realize that when they do this while talking to anyone who actually surfs, they are making themselves look like massive kooks! Think of this as me trying to help a brother out and help him avoid being one of those guys whom everyone rolls their eyes at.

The surf in VB has been fun. Super glad everyone's been enjoying it. But, it just HASN'T been EPIC or CRUSHING, or SOLID OVERHEAD, or any of the terms that people are throwing out on the message boards or in supermarket parking lots.

And, pleeeease don't tell me that if I was just surfing 5th Street from 9:17 - 11:23 yesterday morning, I would've seen it for myself. BULLS@#*T. I've been surfing up and down our town all day for the whole week. It just ain't true boys. And you know what, THAT IS PERFECTLY OK! We're all big boys now, we don't need to pretend.

And... I'll add an apology. I shouldn't be wasting so much time on this, but this is a serious pet peeve of mine. Sorry for offending those of you who love to tell your fish tales. Enjoy the surf!

 

yeah vb has a plethora of swell with good size right now, too bad that the quality of the wave still sucks and we are still on the wrong coast

 

why do you care so much....? the up part of town has been small and the down part of town has been big. occ 7ft tuesday and yesterday was true. so if you spent more time in the north end and not by croatan, you would have seen smaller waves.

 

Correct, my friend!

You are completely right (even though I'm having trouble understanding your reply), I shouldn't care. Please carry on with the fiction... Hell, Stephen King, J.K. Rowling, and many others have made a nice living out of it!

**OH, I just realized something!!! Is it possible that you guys measure the size of the wave while standing on the sandbar? Wow, I don't know why I didn't think of that before. Yes, it was definitely 7-9' yesterday. Cool, now we can agree!

Jeez dude, let me say again that YOU ARE CORRECT (and it is my mistake to even care). If guys see a 4' wave as being seven, more power to them. Perhaps then a real 7' wave will be seen as 10' and the throngs will be too scared to paddle out! Cheers!

 

I surfed the Nags Head fishing pier on Tues. morning. A solid right coming off the south end of the pier, that really was conservatively 2-3 ft. overhead. The real danger was the pier master threatening guys trying to paddle out with a hammer.... A guy I know snapped this shot at Croatan and sent it to me on Wed. morning.....

 

Caught the coastline craze same place, in 1963...Stay wit it

 

Well, jeez 'dude' then. go. surf. somewhere. friggin. else.

Some people have too much time on their hands.

You're anxious about what people say in parking lots?
You're upset over comments from folks in re: the wave heights that they surfed?
You're watching & criticizing people for standing on sandbars as waves roll in?

Dude. Epic Dude, you. There, now, does that make you feel better?

Perhaps:
Spend more time just enjoying surfing & less time actively seeking opportunities to bash on humanity?
Maybe take a break? From Life...?
Write to Dr. Phil?
If he's ignoring you, too, then find a personal therapist?
Go surf Restaurants & send us a full report?

 

Nosotros surfeamos

Yeah, go out and start swimming for as long as you can under water - in the ocean or in a pool. Go swim and paddle even when there's no surf. Go run. Hold your breath for as long as you can whenever you think about it. Start snorkeling and free-diving, and don't let the haters, hate.

Va Beach surf can be challenging to get out in when its breaking like it has been on this swell, amongst others. Other times its a no brainer. Its just easy to get out in. This is a great training break, and if you get good here and can escape your fear of reefs by realizing that this shore break is mighty shallow and that you surf pitchy shallow breaks all the time, you can pretty much expect to surf anywhere.

... and to Mr. I've surfed everywhere... Me too, and I saw plenty of people get there heads covered by shady shacks of ocean love, lots, over the last few days. I also saw a strong majority of peeps get their booyahs handed to them - missed drops, slamming barrels, etc. With all that driving around, where did You actually surf? Pendleton was solid chest to overhead. Sandbridge was pretty lame. The Va Beach jetty was weak and overcrowded. The pier through Ice Creams was 'enfermas' about every two blocks, and North end was kind of weak, but then maybe the problem is, you don't know how to surf draining shore break and just kept sitting too far outside where it looked like chest high mush, but in the inside, that **** was tangible fun, or maybe your used to little kitty-cat like breaks like Waikiki or better yet, Grandmas on Maui.

New stoke doesn't deserve your obvious lame ass inability to appreciate whatever surf the divine provides, so stop hating on our fellow groms and be a real Uncle. Show some Aloha and practical advice instead of your subjugated feelings of inferiority because you're here and not somewhere else.

 

you said you were up and down VB so talked about going up part of town and the down part of town....ie north and south. in all reality, no one is in agreement with you. so, it may be safe to say that you are incorrect?

 

No I agree with him, I Just wouldn't have bothered to say what he said.

It wasn't 7 feet on this swell in VA. That's just crazy talk. Maybe there were a few bomb outside sets like that, but we are talking average which means if you say it was 7 feet, that means in every set there was a 7 foot bomb at least. It was forecasted to be that big on surfline, but I have to say swellinfo nailed this swell. 3 to 4 feet, super punchy and walled up, with a few fast steep barrels mixed in especially on the inside. Maybe a head high set here and there.

I can understand someone being stoked about this swell, but a lot of guys were hoping for quite a bit more (in the size department).

So really philososurfer is right. No question. Probably a lot of people out there that agree with him, they just aren't going to take the five minutes like I just did to say it. Because really who cares. What matters is that if you are having fun out there, keep doing what you are doing.

That all being said I'm about to paddle out for a 2-4 foot dribblers. Why not?